Little pickles, a long history, you know?

Friends who have eaten Japanese food must know that no matter whether it is high-grade Huaishi cuisine or simple Japanese food order, a small dish of pickled vegetables is always served, which is called "Puma" by the Japanese, which is what we often call pickled vegetables. Generally, salt or other seasonings are mixed with various ingredients and pickled. From the production method, Korean pickles and China pickles are all a kind of common food. The difference is that pickles are just low-class side dishes in China, but they have developed into a culture in Japan. With regard to this small pickles, Japan has set up the All-Japan Association for Cooperative Combination of WPA, and set up a rating system for WPA manufacturing managers, which has set strict standards for the inheritance of ancient methods, the development of modern technology, and even the control of packaging and transportation. On August 21st every year, there will be a "incense sacrifice" at the Xuanjin Shrine in Haibei City, Aichi Prefecture (in Japan, the menu of food kiosks always refers to Pu 'an as "incense"), which is a great event in the field of Pu 'an.

The history of Pawpa, inferred from ancient books, originated in China in the 3rd century. By the middle of the sixth century, the technology of WPA was gradually mature. Jia Sizhu's "Qi Min Yao Shu" has contained more than 3 methods of sweeping things. It was not until the eighth century that the technology of WPA was introduced to Japan. At first, the Japanese only used salt to pickle food, and salt was scarce at that time when resources were scarce, so WPA was classified as a high-grade product, and ordinary people rarely had the opportunity to taste it. It was not until the Nara era that various pickling methods were popularized in Japan. In the 5th year of Yanxi, Emperor Yong began to compile Yanxi Style (Yanxi Style is a set of rules and regulations compiled by Fujiwara's equal people, and it is an important document for studying ancient Japanese history from wikipedia), which lasted for 25 years, including records of salting, sauce stains, bad stains, elm trees, beards, pounded and wrapped.

The real commercialization of WPA began in the Edo period. It was also at the end of Edo that an ancient waterlogging technique called desalination, unique to Japan, was born. At the end of the Second World War, the products such as prunes, Zean stains, Fushen stains and Gugao vegetable stains have emerged as the times require. After the end of World War II, influenced by western culture, the structure of Japanese families has changed greatly, and the forms of extended families in it runs in the family are decreasing day by day. After the children get married, they no longer live with their parents, so the family inheritance of Pu 'an craft comes to an end. On this occasion, the embryonic form of the food industry of WPA is emerging day by day.

Nowadays, with fewer and fewer Japanese engaged in high-labor-intensive jobs, the body's demand for salt has changed. In addition, the high blood pressure caused by eating too much salt has made Japanese people pay more and more attention to salt intake. As a result, the production process of the wet-cured product has changed accordingly, and the method of low-salt wet-cured product has been highly praised. As far as Chinese cabbage is concerned, the salt content has dropped from 4% 2 years ago to 2% today. However, with the decrease of salt content, the corrosion resistance of WPA was reduced. The Japanese who love WPA did not give up, but developed low-temperature refrigeration technology and low-salt shallow salting method. It not only keeps the original fresh flavor and color of vegetables, but also inhibits the growth of microorganisms, so that the WPA no longer overflows with rotten smelly liquid, and the WPA culture has since opened a new chapter.

in Japan, the three most popular pickles are Nozawa pickles in Nagano Prefecture, Hiroshima pickles in Hiroshima Prefecture and Takashi pickles in Yamagata Prefecture, Wakayama Prefecture and Fukuoka Prefecture. Wild Zecai is a kind of turnip, also known as Japanese mustard. It was harvested in November, scalded with local hot spring water and pickled with salt or soy sauce on the same day. The taste is somewhat similar to our potherb. Hiroshima pickled vegetable is a big green leafy vegetable, which is seasoned with salt and soy sauce and pickled. It is often used to wrap rice balls and eat together, and has the reputation of "pickled vegetable king". High vegetable stains are also mustard vegetables, with a special spicy taste and a crisp taste. There is also a special way to eat high-vegetable stains: mix natto, chopped onion and mashed garlic, and mix with wet food, which can greatly enhance the delicious taste of natto.

In our Japanese-style food kiosks in China, the most common common common food is Ze 'an pickle, a yellow pickled radish. Legend has it that during the Edo period, Tokugawa Jiaguang visited Donghai Temple, and after tasting it, he was overjoyed, so he named it Ze 'an Stain after the abbot Ze 'an Zongpeng, in recognition of his achievements in popularizing Pu 'an. Ze 'an waterlogging used the ancient waterlogging method of beard and beard poly, which was unique to Japan. Rice bran was mixed with salt water and fermented into white sticky rice bran sauce, and then pickled with radish. In order to prevent rice bran from spoilage, it must be turned once every morning and evening to ensure the activity of flora. Radish is especially sweet under the action of rice bran polysaccharide, so it is deeply loved by Japanese people. From the emperor of Japan to the ordinary people, this pickled vegetable is indispensable as an auxiliary dish at the dinner table.

And if you go to eat curry, many stores will serve a pickle called Fushen Pickle. It is made of eggplant, radish, turnip, angelica sinensis, sword bean, perilla, fragrant shavings and seven kinds of vegetables, which are cut into pieces and pickled with soy sauce, sugar and valine. Legend has it that it was invented by the 15th generation owner of Jiuyue, an old shop in Ueno, Tokyo, in the 19th year of Meiji, and it was named "Fushen Stain" because seven kinds of ingredients were selected, which is a metaphor for the Seven Fortune Gods. Thick and spicy curry, with sweet and delicious fushen stains, is appetizing and greasy, and the diet is well balanced.

there are so many kinds of things that it is impossible to count them all at once. If you want to appreciate the life of the people of the island country, you might as well visit Kyoto. As an ancient capital, there are still traces of ancient things. Choose a local hotel in Kyoto to stay, warm the mattress at dawn, and the host will offer you such a feast of food. Rice cooked in a stone kettle, all kinds of pickles, and a bowl of hot miso soup. Abandon all extravagant tastes and let the taste return to zero. As Sen? Kappa, a well-known contemporary stage designer, once wrote at the beginning of his book Eating Pickled Radish while Walking: "Pickled Radish is the origin of Japanese diet.

if you haven't tasted enough, take the subway to Kyoto station, and walk for 1 minute, and you will find an old shop called Xili, where you can have a set meal of Puma. Three-color paper, with the bamboo charcoal produced after Kyoto Dan, the more polished rice, the simple but top-grade taste, will definitely make you unforgettable for life. It is suggested that after tasting the food alone, put the rest on the rice together, pour the tea soup, and wait until the tea flavor is slowly distributed, which is a unique tea soaked rice.

continue north and come to Murakami Chongben Store near Kawahara-machi Station. This old shop, founded in 1832, is not very large. If you are tired from walking, you can take a break in the shop. The store will offer cherry blossom tea and plum kelp tea according to the season for guests to enjoy. Of course, when you come here, you must taste the unique "thousand stains" in Kyoto, which are only available from early October to late March. Shogoin radish with a diameter of 2cm and a huge size weighing 2kg was used. Hand-cut into 3mm thick slices by craftsmen, put kelp and salt in four buckets, carefully control the temperature and humidity every day, and cook carefully. The natural sweetness of radish is completely integrated into the fragrance of Kunbu, especially around beginning of winter, the sweet taste reached its peak, giving birth to unforgettable thousand stains. The old shop also specially prepared a combination package of thousands of pickled vegetables and tea-stained lettuce. A thousand elegant stains wrapped in salty lettuce are really a wonderful experience, and finally a little soy sauce is another taste.

further north, go to the Dayuan area, and occasionally you will find a farmhouse pavilion hidden in the mountains and forests. In the old wooden barrel, all kinds of fruits and vegetables are packed, seasoned and pressed with heavy stones, waiting for the delicious food to ferment slowly. The elderly people, guarding the chaff beds handed down from generation to generation by their ancestors, let time pass by. But as long as we talk about the common things, a little casual and childlike excitement emerges on the ditch-covered face. She stooped, trembling hands kept turning, digging out pickled fruits and vegetables from the chaff bed for us to see, muttering in a low voice, "This is like my child." Perhaps, this is the Japanese's feelings about WPA. Tired of climbing the mountain, I sat down and tasted some pickles. Surrounded by the rich oxygen in the forest, I ate mountain vegetables, washed stone springs and got rid of gluttony. It was another leisure to have a simple meal.