Rural children like to dig their ears. Where is their fun?

China's food culture is very complicated, with differences between north and south, and different things. Honey in one place may be "arsenic" in another place, such as Houttuynia cordata Thunb, which people often say is "broken ears". For those who have never touched a broken ear root, it is a punishment to touch the broken ear root for the first time, and the strong fishy smell after the entrance is disgusting. For southwest people, broken ears are the most worrying taste of hometown, and it will be uncomfortable if you don't eat a meal.

However, in recent years, many people in the scientific community have pointed out that Houttuynia cordata contains a substance called aristolochialactam, which has potential nephrotoxicity and carcinogenicity. Don't eat until you can eat it. This makes people who love to break their ears stunned.

Can the roots of broken ears still be eaten? How do people in Yunguichuan eat their ears?

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Crocodile root is a perennial herb of Houttuynia of Saururaceae, which has many aliases-Houttuynia cordata, pig nose arch, dog ear patch and so on. Because of its wet nature, it grows on hillsides, streams, ponds, ridges and other places, and is distributed in the south of the Yangtze River basin in China. In the rural areas of Guizhou, when villagers come back from working in Tiantou, they can bring back a lot of fresh ears by temporarily turning around at home.

The roots of auricularia auricula have a long edible history. Legend has it that Gou Jian, the king of Yue, called on all people in Yue to choose water shield to eat, because the reason was to cover up the stench in his mouth. The fashion of eating houttuynia cordata has always been confined to the south of the Yangtze River. Lu Guimeng, a Tang Dynasty poet born in Wuxian County, Jiangsu Province, bluntly said in "Homesick Poems": "It can't replace the cold so far." The bald tail is bighead carp, and the cold salad is houttuynia cordata. As for why Houttuynia cordata was not introduced to the Central Plains, some people think that Houttuynia cordata will cause bad breath, which is an indecent food that only barbarians will eat.

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the root of Cynanchum auriculatum was officially used as medicine and recorded in medical books in the name of Houttuynia cordata Thunb. In Yunguichuan area, there are still many people who use Houttuynia cordata to make spicy soup to relieve summer heat, reduce fever and diminish inflammation.

How do people in Yunguichuan eat broken ears? Now only Yunnan, Guichuan and Hunan are the traditional areas that like to eat broken ears. Love or not is actually a matter of eating habits. Children in Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan can't live without it when they are fed the first bite by their parents.

The best broken ear root should be one with leaves and whiskers on the root, not one that looks fat and clean. The roots, stems and leaves of Cynanchum auriculatum can be eaten, and each place has its own unique practices, and different practices can also reflect the dietary characteristics of a place.

Guizhou: The broken ear root is a symbol belonging to all Guizhou people, and it is one of the most distinctive cooking materials in Guizhou cuisine. According to Guizhou Metropolis Daily, the annual consumption of Osmunda japonica in Guizhou is over 200,000 tons. It is also reported that Guiyang is the city with the largest consumption of broken ear roots in China, and Guiyang people eat 30 thousand Jin of broken ear roots every day.

People in Guizhou like to eat rhizomes with broken ears, and the most common way to eat rhizomes is cold salad. The method of cold mixing auricularia auricula roots is very simple. Clean the root of Auricularia auricula, cut into two or three centimeters, and mix with oil pepper, pepper noodles, salt, vinegar, monosodium glutamate and Chili sauce, and optionally add Jiang Mo, garlic paste, chopped green onion and coriander, and stir well.

The charm of Guizhou cold-mixed auricularia mainly lies in the use of burnt pepper. The way to paste peppers is to select peppers produced locally in Guizhou, bake them with firewood until they are slightly paste, and rub the whole peppers into pepper noodles of different sizes. The freshness of the pepper paste is very important, so it is best to cook and eat it now. Fresh pepper is spicy, mellow, burnt, fragrant but not dry.

Fried bacon with broken ears is also a classic practice. Sliced bacon, boiled in oil, served with broken ears, peppers, garlic cloves, shredded ginger and shredded garlic. The fishy smell of raw fish weakened by broken ears and the aroma of bacon and peppers formed a strange mixture.

In Guizhou, the root of the broken ear can be used as both a main course and a side dish. There are many snacks and big dishes in Guizhou, all of which are broken ears, such as tofu fruit, potato cakes, fish in sour soup, silk dolls and so on.

Silk dolls are common snacks on the streets of Guizhou, also known as vegetarian spring rolls. Cook the thin paper-like round cake made of rice flour, then wrap the shredded radish, broken ears, mung bean sprouts, kelp, fried soybeans, Chili sauce and other seasonings into dough and roll it into small rolls for eating.

In addition to cold salad and stir-fry, ear root is also an essential ingredient in Guizhou cuisine dipping, and almost all dipping water in Guizhou also has ear root.

Sichuan: Don't forget to rinse a broken ear in the hot pot. There is a folk song in Sichuan: "Mao Gen has a broken ear, I am grandma's little grandson, and grandma invited me to eat oil peanuts." This shows the position of the broken ear root in the hearts of Sichuanese.

Sichuanese also have ways to eat cold salad to break the roots of their ears, but generally they only eat the young leaves of broken ears, not the roots. When fresh beans are on the market in spring, Sichuanese also like to make cold dishes with fresh beans and broken ears.

In addition to cold salad, broken ear root is also a favorite side dish for Sichuan people to rinse hot pot. People who love Sichuan hot pot already know that duck blood, pig brain, yellow throat, hairy belly and duck intestines are the standard of hot pot, so you might as well try folding your ears again. ?