Dream back to langmusi, goodbye and I will accompany you.

It's another afternoon dizzy by the sun. Miss Chun can't wait to embrace this city that has been overcast for a winter.

Today, the sixteenth day of the first month.

You should listen to the mercy mantra and enjoy the moon to remember langmusi.

It takes about three and a half hours to reach langmusi from Xiahe all the way to the southwest and across the beautiful Sangke grassland. Langmusi is a place name. Here is the junction of Gansu and Sichuan, and a Bailong River less than 2 meters wide passes through the town. There are Saichi Temple in Gansu in the north of the Yangtze River and Dacang Langmuge Temple in Sichuan in the south of the Yangtze River, both of which belong to the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

Like Shangri-La, langmusi's "fame" is attributed to a foreigner: American Robert Ekwall (1898- 1983). The pious missionary got married and had children in 1930s. He was deeply shocked, so he settled down and stayed for several years. Later, after returning to China, I became obsessed. After finishing my diary, I published the book Horizon of Tibet, which attracted countless western backpackers to travel here.

But now it's hard to see backpackers from abroad when going to langmusi, and it's replaced by domestic photographers. Ekwall's missionary work was obviously unsuccessful, because there was no church here, but there was a mosque at the entrance of Langmuge Temple in Dacang, Sichuan, which was very interesting.

Many media reports like to describe langmusi as "the little Switzerland in the East", but Jinger thinks that langmusi is langmusi, and the profound inheritance of Tibetan Buddhism is incomparable to Switzerland.

Saichi Temple in Gansu is the gelug sect monasteries in Amdo Tibetan area, second only to Ta 'er Temple and Labrang Temple, and the body hall of the fifth G living Buddha in Langmuge Temple in Dacang, Sichuan Province, which was built in Yongle period of Ming Dynasty, is even more legendary.

Perhaps because of the different topography, the styles of the two temples are quite different. The main hall of Saichi Temple is built on the mountain, which is relatively concentrated and looks more magnificent from the outside. Whenever the sun shines, the roof of the Buddhist temple of Saichi Temple shines with golden light.

On the first day in langmusi, there was a light snow in the sky. Standing on the mountain of Saichi Temple, the clouds in the distance are like ink. Early in the morning, many Tibetans gathered in the mountains one after another, and people of all ages turned to Buddhist temples together. At first, it was just an ordinary practice. Later, it was discovered that there was a blessing ceremony, and local Tibetans came to "watch" early.

In contrast, the Buddhist temples in Dacang Langmuge Temple are scattered on the gentle grass, small and exquisite. If you look at the architecture of Saichi Temple, look at the origin of Dacang Langmuge Temple. Because the birthplace of langmusi is the langmusi Grand Canyon here. Therefore, Jinger wants to say, don't go into the gate of Dacangge Temple, and just look around if you feel that there is nothing to see, because the real essence is hidden at the end of the seemingly ordinary meadow!

Dacangge Temple is also called Tiger Cave Fairy Temple. You can probably guess a story that "the people were deeply hurt by the tiger, and the gods could not bear the suffering of the people, so they gave in to the tiger". Going up against the clear water of Bailong River, you can soon reach the mouth of the langmusi Grand Canyon, and you can easily reach the Fairy Cave through the local Tibetans.

The entrance to the fairy cave is flat and low, and you need to bend over to enter, just like a mountain god opening his mouth. The cave is relatively wide, even if there are 50 Yao Ming standing in it, there is no problem. Local Tibetans used to light many butter lamps in caves to pray for their families and themselves, which also made the dark and cold caves warm. If you have the opportunity to come here, you may wish to prepare some butter lamps in advance, and do as the Romans do.

There is also a "Yin Zhongdong" in the fairy cave. Jinger saw Tibetans lining up to drill caves, and also joined in the fun twice. The shape of the "middle hole" is like turning the U-shape upside down. It is very narrow, and only one person can be drilled at a time. You need to climb into the hole head first, then try to turn around and come out on the other side with your feet down. It is said that you can complete the transformation from past life to present life by drilling in from one end of the passage and then coming out from the other end, which means eliminating diseases and prolonging life, eliminating disasters and increasing happiness.

Come out of the fairy cave and continue to fight against the general. There is a big tiger waiting for you. Congratulations, the nest is here. Don't think that the tiger's den is deep, but it is actually very high, quite high. As strong as Jinger, friends who are not afraid of heights can climb.

Nothing attempted, nothing gained. Forget it, pat the dust on your body and continue hiking through the canyon. Continue to go inside, the bushes are overgrown, and the Bailong River has become a stream and frozen into ice. Suddenly, an open basin appeared in front of us, and the road under our feet quietly disappeared. The grass in the distance is covered with snow. Surrounded by strange peaks, unknown birds fly across the sky, and the whole world is silent and wonderful.

On the way back from the depths of the canyon, you might as well learn from the local Tibetans, lie on the meadow for a while, look at the sky, the mountains, the yaks and eat a cup of local yogurt. Don't be too beautiful ~

By the way, you will see more young lamas in the Langmuge Temple in Okura, all of whom are monks and have studied here. They will respond to your gaze with shy eyes and then run away. It's so cute.

Langmuge Temple in Dacang, Sichuan is a journey full of curiosity and adventure. In the fearless journey, meet the rich nature and the compassionate Buddha. Jinger likes this kind of langmusi, primitive and quiet, as if she could see the figure of the American missionary who preached persistently 80 years ago.

Although the business atmosphere in langmusi is getting stronger and stronger now, it's worth visiting as long as you avoid the peak season. Accommodation and dining in the town are very convenient, but the conditions are average.

By the way, when Jing went two years ago, the Bailong River in the town was full of garbage such as plastic bags, instant noodle barrels and beverage bottles ... I don't know how the local government managed it, and I don't know if the situation is better now. Sincerely advise friends to cherish the environment and stop littering!

On the second day in langmusi, it was already dawn, but Jinger had to leave. However, I have no regrets at all. Because this is the fun of traveling, experiencing the unknown and impermanence, and feeling the present.

I wish I could come back here and light a butter lamp.