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Guanzhong handmade noodles

? Guanzhong handmade noodles are a very old traditional folk noodle making variety. Generally speaking, according to the regional characteristics, it is divided into three regions: East, Middle and Xiguan, showing three different style characteristics. The eastern part is mainly made of steamed stuffed buns and emblem noodles, while the central and western parts are mainly made of pasta, and the production technology is basically the same. The tastes of Jingyang, Sanyuan, Liquan, Xingping, Wugong, Fufeng and Ganxian counties in the middle are quite different from those of Qishan, Fengxiang, Baoji, Qianyang and Longxian counties, with salty and sour in the middle and sour in the west. ?

Qishan noodles are traditional delicacies of Baoji, which are famous in Shaanxi and even the whole country. Qishan noodles, as the western part of Guanzhong, should be the same as Guanzhong handmade noodles. However, there are several names for Qishan noodles, and some even have obvious misinformation. I often think: is it "noodles" "noodles" or "noodles"? Is it "whistle face" or "shame face"? Maybe these different names are called by their own time-honored names. Although it's not the same, for local people, everyone knows what's going on, and it doesn't matter what you call it. However, for foreigners who have just arrived in Baoji, these various names will be more or less misleading and even confusing.

In my opinion, the correct name of Qishan noodles should be "Qishan Handmade Noodles". "Roll" is pronounced as "Asia"; Don't read "zā" or "zhá". This is the same as the handmade noodles in Guanzhong, which is determined by the technological characteristics of its production. Local famous snacks are named according to their production characteristics, such as "rolling noodles", "sweet and sour fish" and "boiled pork slices". There is no mystery, which is the law of things that ordinary people know. Looking up Ci Hai, we can see that there are three definitions of "rolling" when reading "Y": ① "Rolling with wheels or round shafts." 2 "crowding out; Rolling. "3" an ancient torture that crushes human joints. " I also noticed the pronunciation of "zhá", and the only explanation is "the process of pressing billet into a certain shape of steel, such as rolling steel". It can be seen that reading "zhá" is a specific pronunciation and a specific interpretation. ?

Handmade noodles are the technology of making pasta summarized by people in the main wheat producing areas in Guanzhong rural areas for thousands of years. My father is an expert in shaving, and we always have a meat cleaver at home. When I was a child, I watched the making process of handmade noodles with adults in the countryside. So I have a very deep memory of the technology and craft of Guanzhong handmade noodles. I think the process of making handmade noodles in my hometown, which I am familiar with, should probably be the same as Qishan noodles. So I will talk about the handmade noodles in Guanzhong with my own personal experience.

? The production technology of Guanzhong handmade noodles mainly includes: kneading, rolling, rolling and cutting. Among them, rolling, rolling and cutting are three particularly critical processes. In the era before the invention of machines, the production process of replacing manpower often has epoch-making significance, so it also has symbolic characteristics for this product. For example, kneading dough is the first process of hand-rolling dough in Guanzhong. Generally add alkaline flour or plant ash water. In my impression, the kneaded dough is hard and slightly yellow in color. The next process is rolling.

Rolling is the second process of manual rolling in Guanzhong. Generally, rolling pins are made during Chinese New Year and large-scale entertainment activities, so noodles are generally harder than those used for rolling at home. As the saying goes, all good noodles are kneaded. An outdated saying is "the daughter-in-law who was beaten kneaded the noodles", which emphasizes the importance of kneading the noodles. However, how to knead the hard noodles? The clever Guanzhong people invented the simple and effective technology of rolling dough mechanically. The mechanical system of rolling surface is to cut a round hole about six or seven centimeters in size and less than two centimeters in depth on the pillar of the house less than one meter from the ground, and set up a shelf under the round hole with two benches on it. Put a clean wooden board about two or three centimeters thick on the shelf, and put a wooden barbell about ten centimeters thick on the board, thus setting up a surface rolling bed. When rolling the dough, insert one end of the wooden barbell into the round hole on the column and put the mixed dough on the board. The dough maker holds the other end of the barbell with one hand, straddles the wooden barbell with one leg, and fiddles with the dough with the other hand, so that the wooden barbell repeatedly squeezes the dough, once up, once up and once again. People in our village also call this process of rolling noodles "ordering food" (I can't tell what the word "Ding" is, but I only heard adults say so at that time). It seems that the longer you say "point", the softer the rolling surface and the better the taste. Repeatedly squeezed dough can be rolled into the next process.

Rolling noodles is different from the usual rolling methods at home. Usually, because the dough is small, people roll it into a round shape, and the rolling pin is thick and short, and the rolling pin is slender-when the plane is thick and small, use a thick and short rolling pin, and when it is thin and large, use a slender rolling pin. However, Guanzhong handmade noodles can't be rolled into a circle because of their large dough, so they need special chopping boards and venues. I remember that the rolled dough is rectangular, just like a piece of cloth. There is only one rolling pin, the short one. Rolling noodles is a job that requires both skill and strength. In my impression, everyone in the village team who can roll noodles is very capable and strong. When they roll the noodles, they roll them for a while, then pull out the rolling pin and squeeze them sideways. Sometimes they even wave a rolling pin and beat on the rolled pages. I often sweat from the heat after the game.

Finally, the slicing process. Because there are many faces, the knife used for cutting is also special. It's interesting to say "broadsword face", but it's certainly not detailed. My father is an expert in shaving. Basically, the whole village wants him to shave noodles at home, so he won't rest every year. Our family has always kept a cutting knife, saying that it looks like a hay cutter, but its handle, back and shape are similar, but there are essential differences. One end of the straw cutter is flat and has holes. When mowing grass, insert the small hole with eyelet into the air inlet slot, and then insert an iron bolt into the small hole aligned with the straw cutter, so that you can hold the handle of the straw cutter tightly and cut grass one by one by using the lever principle. The difference between the slicing knife and the straw cutter is that the end of the slicing knife opposite to the handle is not flat, and there is an eye hole, but a trapezoidal iron block with a thickness of about half a centimeter is riveted specially, so that the action is smooth and neat when slicing. Slicing is done on the square table of the Eight Immortals. In order to prevent the slicing knife from directly contacting the desktop, my father spread a layer of cushion made of millet flour on the desktop. The side of the cushion close to people is thicker and the opposite side is thinner, forming an inclined plane. A thick pile of rolled noodles is folded and laid flat on the millet noodle mat, so that my father can hold the noodles in one hand and guide the knife in the other, lift them up and down, and do them repeatedly, so as to cut out slender and even noodles with concentration and skill. ?

My neighbor is an upper-middle-class farmer, and the quadrangle is very big. The large quadrangle unique to the rich people in Guanzhong has a stone mill inside. Usually people in our street and two squares go to his house to grind noodles, but during the Chinese New Year, his house becomes a noodle shop. Because handmade noodles require both skill and strength, and must be completed by the whole village team, it is not easy to eat. Only when there are large-scale reception activities and New Year's Eve dinners will everyone join hands to eat. Therefore, it is a strange and happy life for people to eat handmade noodles in the era of backward productivity. Cut noodles generally have three characteristics: thin, hard and ugly. Thin and stiff, easy to understand. What does "beard" mean? Remember there is a thing called Zupi in Shaanxi? The word "ugly" here is in Shaanxi dialect, which means that there is rigidity in softness.

Qishan noodles should be the same as the rolling pin in our hometown, and also have three characteristics: thin, hard and smooth. Unfortunately, the locals call it "thin, hard and slippery". In my opinion, this statement is not appropriate. Think about it. What's wrong with the unsmooth surface? It is really a mistake to use the word "light" to summarize the characteristics of noodles. The initiator probably couldn't write the word "ugly" and just muddled through, but how many people were misled and had an inaccurate understanding of the characteristics of Qishan. Many things in the world are like this. It is also common to make mistakes because of some misinformation, but everyone knows what is agreed in life, and of course no one will study and correct it. This leads to our understanding of the world is often rough or biased. After Daoxiao Noodles finishes eating, the host will take Daoxiao Noodles home and enjoy the famous noodle soup in Guanzhong.

Guanzhong people like to eat this kind of "full of fragrance" and often forget to eat vegetables. This is related to the importance that Guanzhong people attach to noodle soup making. The general taste will vary with different family habits. Some like sour soup, while others prefer salty soup. Some use leeks as floating vegetables, and some use chopped green onion as floating vegetables; Some families have scorpions, which must be scorpion soup; Some families are shameless, so they spread an egg cake and cut it into a small diamond shape to float a yellow flag flower in the soup: when there is really no food, they cut a rolled cabbage, cut it into pieces with cabbage cores, spread an egg cake and cut it into a diamond flag flower and mix it with the broken flowers, and then pour some oil and pepper into the soup, which is also the "fragrant" side of vegetarian Chili soup.

From the taste of a family to the taste of a place, there needs to be a characteristic tendency recognized by everyone. For example, Qishan, Guanzhong people all fry, and only Qishan people fry have a special taste-pepper and vinegar. Therefore, the local flavor of Qishan SAO Zi is sour and spicy. By the way, the word "Sao". Many people call "Sister-in-law Qishan" "Qishan whistle", which is purely a misunderstanding of food culture and a lack of common sense in writing. The story of "Lu Dihai punched the town of Kansai" in Water Margin is almost a household name. In order to avenge the singer's father and daughter, Lu Da wanted to find fault with Zhen Kansai, so he asked Zhen Kansai to chop up two kinds of minced meat. One kind of minced meat is not allowed to have any lean meat, and the other kind of minced meat is not allowed to have any fat meat, thus deducing the thrilling story of Lu Ti's punching the town to avenge the poor. This is the word "Sao" used in the novel. Look up the dictionary, "Sao Zi", dialect, minced meat or diced meat, such as "instant noodles with mutton". Unfortunately, when watching Shaanxi Satellite TV one day, some announcers mispronounced "Sao Zi" as "whistle". The noodle soup made of Qishan SAO Zi naturally has the taste of Qishan SAO Zi, which is sour and spicy. The noodle soup in Fufeng, Wugong, Xingping, Ganxian, Liquan, Jingyang, Sanyuan and other places to the east of Qishan has no "sour and spicy taste", and the taste is salty and sour. The side dishes have also become mainly leeks, chopped green onion and egg flag slices floating on the noodle soup. You don't need day lilies, carrots, fungus and tofu like Qishan noodles. Because Guanzhong people eat noodles in soup, they often eat noodles not to eat enough, but to taste the soup, so they often don't care much about the number of dishes. It is biased to say that Guanzhong people are not good at eating vegetables. And there are side dishes and buttered flowers floating in the noodles. Who will ask for more noodles with such delicious soup?

? Due to the limitation of productivity, it was not easy for people to eat soup and noodles in the past Coupled with the weak material foundation, the soup used for topping is generally simple and the dishes are not rich. Only during major events and festivals, are we specially prepared to be polite to our relatives and neighbors. At this time, the soup used for topping is also rich and mellow. Therefore, there is another description of the soup in Guanzhong, which is called "fried, thin and king". This is not the exclusive feature of Qishan noodles.

"Fried" refers to the heat of the soup. Noodles in soup are not suitable for cold food, because there are oily flowers floating in the soup, often lard. Generally, you should eat it while it is hot, and you should be able to burn your mouth. People who eat noodles pick up some noodles with chopsticks, blow them with a crooked neck, and then suck them hard, so that the delicious hot noodles will be in their stomachs. "Thin" is the consistency of noodles. Guanzhong people pay attention to the width (width, abundance and foot) of soup when eating noodles, and usually finish it in one bite. The so-called "a mouthful of incense" is what you get when you suck it down. "Wang" is the concentration of oil flowers floating on the noodle soup. "Wang" means many, thick and high concentration. There is a saying in Guanzhong dialect called "Tang Wang Wang Shui", which means more soup and more water. The "king" in noodle soup is that the oil flower is very thick, and the noodle soup is covered with a thick layer of oil flower, which is a delicious food that can only be enjoyed in a very rich and grand day in an era of material poverty.

—— 199 1 spring draft, 20 14 summer draft.