What kind of culture and habits do Shandong people have about food?

Shandong people are famous for their delicious food. However, as a Shandong native, after wandering around the wine table for more than ten years, I found that Shandong people are not as good as Mongols in alcohol consumption and the intensity of drinking is not as good as that of Northeast people. But Shandong people have many customs and manners on the wine table, and there are many ways to drink. These things are mixed, some enhance the atmosphere, and some are disgusting. Let me tell you one or two things here.

First, sit down. Shandong has been a country of etiquette since ancient times, and the distinction between host and guest, young and old on the wine table cannot be sloppy. On the wine table, the position of the door is usually the owner or the owner (that is, the person who pays the bill and treats the guests), and the wine table is sometimes dubbed as the "manor owner";

In the position opposite him, the host came to entertain the guests together, called "the main escort". The names of these two locations vary from place to place, but their meanings are similar.

If friends from other places can't figure out why, I'll tell you a simple method: just look at the folding method of napkins in cups on the table. The folding methods of napkins in these two positions are different. The host's napkin is usually folded into a cylinder and inserted into the cup. The host's napkin folded into a fan. Napkins are usually three-fold petal-shaped in their position. The layout of the whole napkin is a bit like a phoenix spreading its wings. When these two seats are reserved, other positions will be determined. Sitting on the host's right is the "guest of honor" and on the left is the "guest of honor"; It is also important on both sides of the host, and the right side is above. It's best not to make mistakes when eating together. In the rest of the seats, the host and guests can sit at will. These people are nicknamed "no three no four" on the wine table, because there is no distinction between "three guests" and "four escorts" on the wine table.

After the host and guests were seated, they began to pour wine. Shandong people like to drink, especially in big bowls. This seems to have the legacy of Liangshan heroes. Although there is no need for a big bowl or a small cup now. If you see Shandongese drinking with small glasses in San Qian in movies or TV series, it's sheer nonsense. At present, the standard cups in Shandong Province are three-two-three-high cups (it is impossible to prove who is the first to be popular, but a bottle of white wine can just pour three cups). Wine is generally white wine, and the degree is generally around 38 degrees (Shandong people don't like to drink high-alcohol very much). Of course, you can also drink beer, but it is generally converted according to the ratio of liquor and beer +0: 6. After taking a seat, everyone fills such a cup first, which is called the front cup. It means to clean your own snow. This glass of wine is a must for everyone present. Not drinking is disrespectful to the host or the host. Of course, the host will lead everyone to drink this first glass of wine. Generally, the host should have an opening speech, be polite and then set a standard. In other words, this glass of wine should be finished several times. It is usually six times, which is called "six times". The meaning of "qi" includes the meaning of "developed" and is auspicious. In this way, under the leadership of the host, everyone can drink, eat and chat. This wine usually doesn't touch the glass. Shandong people call it "clinking glasses doesn't count." But when you hold up a cup, you can click on the table and call it "over-electricity". In restaurants, you can often hear the ping-pong of glasses hitting the table. The wine table was dubbed "Beggars' Meeting".

When the host leads everyone to finish this cup, it's the host's turn to speak. It is also a ceremony, and it is also to lead everyone to drink a glass of wine. Under normal circumstances, two glasses of wine are more than half a catty, the host and guest are flushed, and the clouds are rising at their feet. At this time, the host announced that the ceremony was over and everyone could move freely. Note that this free activity doesn't really let you go out to sober up, but you can drink alone with anyone, you can drink more or less, and there is no limit. Generally, at this time, guests should thank their hosts for their hospitality. Generally, the first round is the guest and host, the second round is the guest and host, and so on. During this period, the atmosphere on the wine table is the most active, which can bring the relationship between host and guest closer at once. But this time is often a headache. Because there is already half a catty of white wine at this time, there are still many tricks to persuade wine, which is particularly easy to get drunk.

For example, there is a bottle-catching game in the banquet hall, which I hate. That is, each player has a bundle of beer (10 bottle) and there is a bottle in the middle of the table. Participants are not allowed to touch the bottle in the middle of the table until they have finished drinking a bundle of beer. When you finish your beer, grab the beer in the middle first and then drink it. Old fox has only played this game three times, 2 wins/kloc-0 losses. Don't mention how uncomfortable it was the next day. There is also a drinking day, which is one year 12 months. Be sure to set a memorable day, otherwise you will drink and others will drink. 10 Before this month, people often started talking nonsense.

Generally, Shandong people treat you, and there must be fish on the wine table. Fish is a "big dish" in Shandong, and it is called "big dish" on the wine table. Don't look at delicacies, compared with fish, they can only be called "side dishes". It's not that Shandong people are rare for fish. It's mainly good luck, "more than a year". Generally, when fish is served, the fish head rushes to the guest to show respect for the guest. At this time, guests should drink fish head wine, and people with tails should drink fish tail wine, which is generally "three tails and four tails", and then everyone will eat fish together. The remaining fishbone is generally not removed. When the host asked them to take it away and cook a soup with them, he was actually saying: the party is almost over, it's time to end. The soup made of fish bones is called "miscellaneous fish soup", which means adding fish bones and broken fish to the soup, adding pepper and vinegar to stew. It's delicious. Friends who haven't drunk it can make it themselves and taste it. Delicious and not wasteful. The soup came, everyone drank the wine in the goblet and ate it, and then the feast was over.

Shandong people generally drink for a long time, except for some ceremonial banquets, which are controlled at about one hour. Generally, the banquet lasts more than three hours, while the gathering time between some close friends is longer. So in Shandong, except for those who drink less, most people have to drink half a catty for a cup, right? When the banquet broke up, most of them must have big tongues and crooked steps.

Special snack

/xiaoChiClass.php？ Province =%C9%BD%B6%AB

Shandong diet custom

Shandong food customs, as a whole, belong to the northern type, close to Beijing and Tianjin, and are deeply influenced by Beijing and Tianjin. Coastal and island fishing areas, mountainous areas, plains, lakes, cities and ancient towns all show their own eating habits due to different natural environments, different production conditions and different traditional cultures, thus making Shandong's eating habits deeply branded with regional marks.

Shandong food custom has its distinctive personality, and its unique food style and cooking skills occupy a very important position in China food culture, among which the flavor of dishes is called one of the four major flavor cuisines in China. Shandong's daily diet and time-saving customs have profound cultural connotations.

First, the geographical resources of Shandong diet

Shandong is a coastal province of China, located in the lower reaches of the Yellow River, and Jiaodong Peninsula extends eastward into the sea. Shandong has diverse landforms, including broad rolling hills and mountains, vast lakes and fertile Yellow River Delta. Rich resources and fertile soil have prepared a rich innate foundation for the formation of unique personality of Shandong's dietary customs.

Shandong is an earlier and better agricultural area in history, especially in most areas of Shandong Plain. Farmland development has been very common, and water conservancy facilities are relatively complete, which makes the planting industry in most parts of Shandong very developed and become the main economic source and food source in this area. On the contrary, with the gradual development and popularization of development, there are fewer and fewer natural collections, and delicacies have almost disappeared from people's food resources. Even mushrooms and auricularia auricula, which depend on nature, have similar varieties cultivated artificially. Therefore, from the perspective of food resources such as grain, vegetables, fruits and fungi, Shandong's food resources are mainly agricultural products and artificially cultivated products. Out-of-season vegetables and fruits are mostly artificially cultivated products in vegetable greenhouses. The main crops are wheat, barley, rice, corn, soybean, millet, sweet potato and sorghum. Crops include cotton, sesame and peanuts. Its vegetables and fruits are more abundant, which are produced almost all year round. The vegetables are Chinese cabbage, radish, potato, moss, lettuce, onion, Chinese toon, celery, Chinese cabbage, Man Qing, pickled vegetables, fennel, lentils, lilies, taro, kidney beans, ginger, centipede, root cabbage, kohlrabi, etc. Melons are generally divided into fresh food and vegetable use. Fresh eaters include watermelon, melon, crispy melon, noodle melon, elbow melon, cantaloupe and so on. Vegetable users include cucumber, zucchini, wax gourd, pumpkin, vegetable melon, rice melon, hanging melon, stirred melon, towel gourd, square melon, ding melon, gourd, gourd and so on. Edible fungi can be divided into wild and domestic categories. There are Coprinus comatus, Agaricus, Maoyuyu, Jujube Moth, Auricularia and so on in the wild. There are Pleurotus ostreatus, Lentinus edodes, Auricularia, Tremella, Hericium erinaceus, Coprinus comatus, Flammulina velutipes, Tricholoma, etc.

Meat food resources mainly come from livestock products raised collectively by families and farms. Generally speaking, pork is the largest, followed by beef and mutton; Chicken is the main poultry, followed by duck, goose, quail and guinea fowl. Due to the extreme reclamation of farmland and the development of agricultural cultivation, there is less and less land for grazing, and there is almost no possibility of free grazing in plain areas, only a small amount of natural grassland is reserved in some mountainous areas and beaches. Therefore, family feeding has become one of the main sources of meat. There are pigs and chickens at home, so pigs are the main ones, and cows and sheep need to be partially grazed, so there are fewer; Ducks and geese need some water and are also limited by feeding conditions, so they are the second kind. Livestock and poultry mainly include pigs, cattle, sheep, donkeys, horses, mules, rabbits, minks, chickens, ducks, geese, pigeons, quails and birds.

Relatively speaking, Shandong has less and less water resources. First of all, freshwater resources and lakes are gradually shrinking and degrading. In addition to a few freshwater lakes such as Weishan Lake, Dongping Lake and Mata Lake, there are also some wild collections. Shandong's freshwater products are mainly obtained through freshwater culture and artificial culture. Secondly, due to the advanced and expanded fishing equipment in recent years, there are almost no original Shandong specialty seafood varieties, such as prawns, yellow croaker and Spanish mackerel. Marine fishing and beach culture have become the main sources of seafood. The main aquatic products of freshwater lake are fish, shrimp, crab and clam. Specifically, there are carp, grass carp, silver carp, snakehead, tilapia, crucian carp, turtle, eel, catfish, mandarin fish, rainbow trout, freshwater shrimp, Chinese crab, hairy crab, mussel, mussel and so on. The east coast is rich in all kinds of fish and shellfish.

Shrimp, crab, bath and other seafood. Specifically, Cargill, herring, yellow croaker, Spanish mackerel, mackerel, pike, saury, hairtail, whitebait,

Laoban fish, sardines, pomfret, sole, shark, tongue fish, striped wolf, abalone, scallop, shark's fin, sea cucumber, conch, sea sausage, oyster, meretrix meretrix, swan egg, scorpion, meretrix meretrix, prawn, claw shrimp and meretrix meretrix.

Shandong's mountain resources are not very rich. In the 1960s and 1970s, excessive logging and blind reclamation of farmland made this rare wild animal which can supplement human food resources less and less. Most areas began to close mountains to facilitate afforestation and return farmland to forests and grasslands. Therefore, the rare game in Shandong, which can be provided for people to eat, has also become artificial breeding such as black fungus, mushrooms, pheasants and mushrooms. Almost all the delicacies have disappeared from the dining table of Shandong people. On the contrary, grasshoppers, golden cicadas, silkworms and scorpions have almost become delicacies on people's tables. Other common game include scorpions, rabbits, pheasants, antlers of Mount Tai, mushrooms, civet cats, badgers, Shi Wa, wild goats, roe deer, foxes, mountain rat, ferns, Toona sinensis, onions and leeks. Except wild vegetables, other delicacies are rare now, and people no longer eat them.

Second, the cultural background of Shandong food customs

Shandong, called Qilu in ancient times, is one of the birthplaces of the Chinese nation's league building period. The deposition of Yangshao culture, Dawenkou culture, Longshan culture and Qijia culture in the early historical period, the prosperity of Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, and the vertical and horizontal accumulation of culture made the Qilu food culture area in the northern food culture develop significantly, thus becoming the most influential cultural area among many regional cultural areas. There are not only all the food, fruits and vegetables on land, but also fish, salt and delicacies that are extremely scarce in the inland. Rich raw materials and products, advanced iron smelting technology, urban commercial and historical and cultural advantages, and convenient transportation make the vast area in the lower reaches of the Yellow River with Qilu culture as the center of gravity become an important developed area of national culture and food culture. Therefore, "the wind of Zou and Lu" has become the reference of folk customs in various regions of China. Shandong is also the hometown of Confucius and Mencius and the birthplace of Confucianism. Confucianism, represented by Confucius, almost ruled the whole feudal society and had a far-reaching influence on the traditional culture of China. Confucius' doctrine of the mean endowed Shandong with the highest realm of "harmony". Harmony with heaven, harmony with earth, harmony with people, harmony between heaven, earth, people and food. Its diet itself has reached the most delicious state, honest and peaceful, and the taste will be weak.

Specifically, Shandong's cultural background is divided into three distinctive regions. Ancient Canal Cultural Dining Area, Qilu Cultural Dining Area and Marine Cultural Dining Area.

The ancient canal cultural catering area mainly refers to the urban and rural catering culture on both sides of the ancient canal in Shandong Province. This area runs through western Shandong, across northwest Shandong, southwest Shandong and southern Shandong. Beijing is the political, economic and cultural center of the north; From south to Suzhou and Hangzhou, from north to south, Yanzhao culture, Qilu culture, Jingchu culture and Wuyue culture all wear on the cultural belt of the canal. Coupled with the east-west flow of the Yellow River, the spirit of Qin Jin culture was dissolved in the canal and its intersection. In this way, the generosity and trustworthiness of Yanyue culture, the cautious opening of Qilu culture, the intelligence and wisdom of Jingchu culture, the flexibility and courage of Wuyue culture and the gentleness and kindness of Qin Jin culture have all merged into a new cultural form-Canal culture. As for the specific diet, the residents of Zhucheng Township in the canal area have almost the same holiday diet customs, and the inherent diet customs in various places are widely blended because of the north-south flow of the canal. In the old days, Yangzhou people in the south of the Yangtze River and Jining residents in the north of the Yangtze River all took boiled tea from the canal, and Tianjin residents' diet was also "all taken from the canal water". People in Dezhou, Shandong Province still regard the "Swallow's Wings Banquet" as a kind of high-grade enjoyment at the banquet of wealthy businessmen in Yangzhou, while Confucius' banquet in Qufu is "four pieces of shark's fin" and "three pieces of sea cucumber", so precious food raw materials such as sea cucumber, shark's fin, bird's nest, squid, ham, etc. are distributed all over the town docks of the Canal, such as Jining, Taierzhuang, Yanggu, Zhangqiu and Linqing. Besides, snow wine from Tongzhou, dry wine from Taizhou, Jinhua wine from papaya wine in Gaoyou and Jinhua, Qiao wine from Baoying and Shaoxing old wine can be found on the pier of Shandong Canal. With the convergence of customs and business culture in North and South China, even in the industry language, Jianghu-style incisions familiar to businessmen in North and South China are popular, and argot or specific gestures are widely used in address, architecture, daily life, food, furniture, clothing, surnames and even astronomy and geography. The gradual convergence of culture and religious belief is manifested in the canal area, which has formed quite prosperous temple fairs and ancient meetings. These commercial and cultural activities attract tens of millions of business travelers and tourists from all directions and thousands of miles away every year. The merchant's guild hall in the canal pier town has brought colorful regional culture of the business capital. In addition, the commercial prosperity on the canal has influenced and created new natural environment, ecological environment, economic environment and humanistic and social resources environment, and created commercial and cultural landscapes conducive to human survival and development.

Qilu cultural dining area refers to a narrow concept here. It is a dietary custom in Jinan, Tai 'an, Zibo, northern Shandong and southern Shandong. In a big way, Shandong can be called Qilu cultural food area, but the peninsula east of Weifang has obvious characteristics of marine food culture, so it is separated from pan-Qilu food culture; There are canals in western Shandong, northwestern Shandong and southwestern Shandong (including parts of southern Shandong), and the local diet is greatly influenced by the canal diet. As mentioned above, it is also divided into a branch. Then the rest will become a narrow Qilu cultural eating area.

In fact, historically, Qi and Lu are different. Luyuan was the territory of the Duke of Zhou in the early Zhou Dynasty. Because the Duke of Zhou stayed in Beijing to help him become a king, he took the Duke of Zhou's offspring as Lv Hou. The Duke of Zhou contributed to the success of Zhou Wang, so Zhou Wang divided Lu into two parts. Some scholars believe that the three generations of culture are concentrated in Zhou and Lu, which has become a typical example of China traditional culture and Asian traditional culture. In addition, Duke Zhou and Confucius, who was born in Shandong in the Spring and Autumn Period, were later deified saints of Confucianism. Because "everyone is enlightened by saints, so Confucius Day:' Qi changed into Lu and Tao', which is close to the truth." Lu culture's insistence on orthodoxy and authenticity also makes its local diet emphasize "positive taste" and abandon "partial taste" and "miscellaneous taste" Formed a cooking style of "righteousness" and "harmony" in eating.

The land of Qi is "negative for the sea". At the beginning of the Zhou Dynasty, after Jiang Taigong was sealed in the State of Qi, he adapted measures to local conditions and "advised women workers to take fish and salt as benefits", thus forming a situation of "harmony between people". Qilu Qi in a narrow sense mainly refers to Zibo area. Qi attached great importance to handicraft industry, so the development of handicraft industry also caused the improvement and stress of living consumption. Therefore, Tiki is "vulgar and trivial, woven into a pure and beautiful thing embroidered by Wan Qi, with the theme of dressing for the world." ...... "Up to now, his scholars are good at Confucian classics, boasting fame, being broad-minded and wise." Thus, the degree of consciousness of "one Satoru etiquette, food and clothing know honor and disgrace" has been achieved. In particular, the city life is rich and colorful, and the capital Linzi is "very rich and real, and all its people are boastful, playing the piano and fighting cocks and stooges." Not only do you live in luxury, but you can continue to enjoy it after death. It's amazing enough to see 600 horses killed by Qi Jinggong. However, Guan believes that this view of consumption has its rationality: it makes the poor so dark; Meilong tomb, so civilization also; Giant coffins, so carpentry also; I have too many clothes, so I have to be a woman worker. "(see" Tube Escape "). Qi's thought of luxury and openness makes his diet form a unique style that pays attention to content and taste.

Qilu style gradually merged, forming the traditional style of Qilu diet, paying attention to flavor, being harmonious but different, and maintaining integrity.

As the third largest regional food culture in Shandong, namely marine food culture, it mainly refers to the food culture of Shandong Peninsula. Historically, this area belongs to the hometown of Qi culture, and emphasizing "the benefit of fish and salt" is the meaning of this area. The benefits of the ocean are particularly prominent in this area. The dietary characteristics benefited from fish salt are: paying attention to fishing, seafood and natural flavor, and even eating sweet potatoes with jellyfish. People in Jiaodong gradually formed the Jiaodong diet custom with the characteristics of marine diet.