What sentences were there to describe "young ladies" and "northern warlords" in the Republic of China?

It is hard for us to imagine the world in the past, so slow, quiet and tidy-under the rule of the Qing Dynasty for 300 years, women had no fashion at all! People from generation to generation will not get bored wearing the same clothes. By the time of the founding of the People's Republic of China, women's clothing still retained the remarkable legacy of the Ming Dynasty, because "men are superior to women". From the middle of17th century to the end of19th century, extremely wide shirts and trousers were popular, and there was a calm atmosphere. The collar is very low and there is nothing. In informal occasions, the "gown" worn outside is widened to reveal the "middle coat".

There is a tight and narrow "small coat" in the "middle coat", which will not be taken off when sleeping. Most of them are charming, pink or pink. On top of the three coats, a "cloud shoulder vest" was added, which was inlaid with wide black satin and had a big cloud head.

The standard shoulder-cut beauty, thin waist and flat chest, thin and small, disappeared under the weight of this layer of clothes. She doesn't exist, she's just a hanger. People in China don't approve of women who are too conspicuous. The sensational virtues recorded in history-such as an arm pulled by a strange man and cut off-have won ordinary admiration, but the intellectuals always feel a little sorry, because a woman should not attract too much attention; Ren is an iron name that hangs on the lips of millions of people and rusts in the breathing steam.

If a woman wants to stand out, even this ostentatious way is opposed, not to mention fancy clothes, which is naturally more immoral.

When you go out, the skirt and trousers are more regular. It's usually black. During Chinese New Year, my wife wears red and my aunt wears pink. Widows wear black dresses, but after her husband died for many years, if her in-laws are in the hall, they can wear lake color or snow blue. The fine pleats on the skirt are the most rigorous test of a woman's manners. A girl with a good family education, even if she walks steadily, the pleated skirt is not motionless, but only the slightest shaking. Jasper, a small family who is not used to wearing skirts, feels stormy when she walks. Even more harsh is the bride's red dress, with a half-inch wide ribbon hanging around her waist and bells tied at both ends. There is only a faint tinkling sound when acting, like a wind chime on a pagoda in a distant mountain. As late as 1920, more chic and free pleated skirts became popular and were completely abolished.

Wearing leather clothes, but still can't afford some discrepancy, they are regarded as nouveau riche. Leather clothes have certain seasons and are classified in detail. If it is extremely cold in October, it is ok to wear three layers of skin. As for what skin to wear, it depends on the season, not the weather. Wear "little hair" in early winter, such as green sheep, purple lamb and pearl lamb; Then wear "medium hair", such as silver mouse, gray mouse, gray ridge, fox leg, fragrant shoulder and Japanese knife; Wear "heavy hair" in winter-white fox, green fox, western fox, mysterious fox and mink. Only people with fame can wear mink. People in the middle and lower classes used to be much richer than they are now, and most of them had a robe inlaid with gold, silver or sheepskin.

The girls' Zhao adds some color to the gloomy winter moon. Judging from the pictures of past dynasties, Zhao Jun wore an Eskimo-style wind pocket, which was simple and generous, and many of them imitated Hollywood stars. China/KLOC-Zhao in the 0/9th century is crazy and charming. It is a melon-skin hat, with a circle of skin around the brim, a huge red velvet ball at the top of the hat, two pink ribbons hanging from the back of the head, and a pair of golden seals at the end of the ribbon, which often collide with each other.

Pay too much attention to details. For the clothing points of this period. In modern western fashion, unnecessary embellishments are not unchanged, but they all have a purpose-to develop blue eyes, subsidize underdeveloped breasts, make people look taller or shorter, focus on the waist, and eliminate the excessive curve of buttocks ... The embellishment on ancient Chinese clothes is completely meaningless. If it is purely decorative, why is the sole covered with complicated patterns? Shoes themselves rarely have the opportunity to show their faces in front of people, let alone soles, and the edges of high soles are covered with dense patterns.

The coat is divided into three sets of three volumes, five sets of five volumes and seven sets of seven volumes. In addition to the roll, there are plum blossoms and chrysanthemums with rhinestones flashing on the hem and lapels. Another silk lace named "Linggan" was nailed to the sleeve, about seven inches wide, and the words "Longevity" were hollowed out.

There are countless little interesting points gathered here. It is the consistent attitude of the leisure class in China to constantly create complexity, be unconstrained and unreasonable, and waste energy on irrelevant things. Only the most leisure people in the most leisure country in the world can appreciate the beauty of these details. It certainly takes art and time to make a hundred similar patterns without making serious mistakes; Appreciating it is equally annoying.

It seems that the costume designers in ancient China don't know whether a woman is a grand view garden. Too much accumulation to concentrate. The history of our fashion, in a word, is the gradual subtraction of these embellishments.

Of course, it's not that simple. There is also alternating erosion of waist size. The first serious change occurred in the thirty-second year of Guangxu. Railways are no longer so rare, and trains have begun to occupy an important position in China people's lives. The fashion styles of major commercial ports quickly spread to the mainland. Clothes and trousers gradually shrink, and when the "dry" and wide rolls pass, only one is extremely narrow. Flat is "leek edge" and round is "lamp grass edge", which is also called "thread incense roll" in the period of political turmoil and social unrest. For example, during the European Renaissance, fashionable clothes were always tightly wrapped around the body, neat and neat, and strenuous activities were allowed. In Italy in the fifteenth century, because underwear was too tight and too small, elbows were bent, knees were bent, and joints of bones and muscles were split. China's clothes almost burst when the revolution was brewing. When the "little emperor" ascended the throne, his coat was like a sheath. The function of China women's tight vest is really wonderful-the clothes are tighter, the body under the clothes is not realistic, and it looks less like a woman, more like a poetic soul. The straight line of the long coat extends to the knee, and there are two narrow trouser legs hanging below, like a golden lotus with feet but no feet. I am embarrassed to tread lightly on the ground. The beauty of pencil pants lies in giving people a feeling of loneliness. In China's poems, "pity" is synonymous with "loveliness". Men often have a hobby of protecting the opposite sex, and in the transitional era when the green and yellow are not connected, the difficult life situation is even more exciting. Women with wide robes and big sleeves now feel that they can't be too lucky, but bad luck is also good.

This is an extreme era. The shortcomings of the political and family systems were suddenly exposed. Young intellectuals hate everything traditional, even everything in China. Conservatives also increase pressure because of panic. Nervous arguments are going on all the time, at home, in newspapers and in entertainment places. Even the whitewashed civilized opera actors and aunts' ideal lovers borrowed the topic of their fiancee to discuss current affairs on the stage, and they burst into tears.

The ancient country that has always been calm has never been so turbulent. In that hysterical atmosphere, the "Yuanbao collar" came into being-a hard collar with a height parallel to the tip of the nose, like a foot-high metal top ring in Myanmar, forcing women to stretch their necks. This scary collar is completely out of proportion to the twisted waist below. The top-heavy and unbalanced nature symbolizes that era.

In the early years of the Republic of China, everything seemed clear for a while. Everyone seriously believes in Lu Sao's idealized humanism. Students enthusiastically support the voting system and are unfilial and free to fall in love. Even tried pure spiritual love, but it seems that it will not succeed. Fashion also shows unprecedented innocence, lightness and pleasure. The "trumpet sleeves" fluttered, revealing a large jade wrist. This blouse is very tight at the waist. Upper-class women wear skirts when they go out, and only a pair of knee-length shorts and stockings at home. Occasionally, the junction of trousers and socks boldly shows the knees. Women with ulterior motives often hang provocative long and wide thin silk belts at the bottom of their coats, with rows of ears floating at the end.

Most of the fashions in the early years of the Republic of China were inspired by the West. It doesn't count if it is reduced, even if it is exempted. The neckline is dug into the shape of a circle, a square, a heart and a A Jin diamond. White silk scarves can be used in all seasons. The black embroidery on the heel of white stockings crawled on the calf like a bug. Socialists and prostitutes often wear simple glasses for beauty. It can be seen that imported goods are accepted indiscriminately.

Warlords come and go, sand and stones fly behind the horseshoe, followed by their own officials, the government, the law, and the fashion that stumbled over. Similarly, the hem of the ever-changing short coat is round, pointed and hexagonal. In the past, women's clothes, like jewelry, were old and could be sold at any time. However, it was no longer popular in pawn shops during the Republic of China, because it was worthless after it passed.

The rapid development of fashion does not necessarily show lively spirit and novel ideas. On the contrary. It can represent slowness; Due to the failure of other activities, all the ideas flowed into the clothing field. In the period of political chaos, people can't improve their living conditions. They can only create their own personal environment-clothes. We all live in clothes.

192 1 year, women wear robes. The flag costume originated in Manchuria has been in parallel with the Chinese costumes since the flag bearer entered the customs. Women under its banner think that their cheongsam lacks feminine beauty and hope to change into more attractive jackets and pants. However, the emperor issued a letter and strictly prohibited it. After the Five Clans, women all over the country suddenly adopted cheongsam unanimously, not because they were loyal to the Manchu Dynasty and advocated the restoration movement, but because women deliberately imitated men. In China, since ancient times, women have been synonymous with "three locks of hair and two clothes". There is a subtle difference between one-piece and two-piece packaging. There seems to be nothing unfair, but women in 1920 tend to become more worried. At first, influenced by western culture, they were fascinated by the theory of equal rights between men and women, but the actual situation around them was far from ideal. In shame and indignation, they rejected everything feminine and wanted to strangle women's roots.

The newly developed cheongsam is strict, cold, square and puritan. Politically, the unfortunate events at home and abroad have disheartened the people. Young people's ideals will not be supported one day. Fashion is beginning to tighten. The sleeves of the trumpet have shrunk. 1930, the sleeves reach the elbows, and the collar is raised again. A few years ago, the advantage of the gold ingot collar was that the cheeks were obliquely cut to a suitable angle, and the face was not oval, but also oval. This time, the high collar is cylindrical, close to the lower jaw, and the girl who has not relaxed her muscles has also given birth to a double chin. This kind of collar is absolutely unforgivable. However, it symbolizes the intellectual debauchery of ten years ago-the stiff collar separates the goddess' head from the rich and soft body below. There is irony and laughter after despair.

At that time, the double-breasted military coat, which was popular in Europe and America, hit it off with the sad mood of Chinese people. However, the China woman who abides by the golden mean wears a velvet robe and mops the floor under her brave coat. The robe is crossed on her thighs, revealing trousers made of the same material, and silver lace shines on the legs. The owner of the clothes is also such a strange collocation. On the surface, they all sing high-profile, but they are materialists in their bones.