Back and forth to Tibet episode 1: Come with me to Hoh Xil.

I am born in 1980s, married, not an otaku. I don't play online games or go to nightclubs, but I don't like sports, and I don't like a trip that takes me far away. I'm not a white-collar worker, I don't need a job, I'm not a rich second generation, I'm tasting the hardships and busy anxiety of starting a business. I am at least 3000 kilometers away from Tibet, which is a place I have never dreamed of and can't reach-I am a person who doesn't even have a holiday, and I can't tell the difference between work and life, but I went to Tibet. I mean, I spent a year and a half traveling around Tibet. Too many people wrote travel notes and strategies about Tibet, and travelers and backpackers came here day and night. Snow Mountain Yak Little Zhuo Ma, Babaguo Village Datang Card ... Well, you can say a few words on the labels of these hidden places, so I won't repeat them. I am a tourist, a passer-by and a spectator. Later, I decided to stay, not only physically but also mentally. Many people found the answer and meaning of life in that sacred place, but I found the question here and asked myself some important questions that I dared not face and never thought about. Now, I want to tell you. I try to be objective, say what I see and feel what I hear. I came and went, I went and came back. I advise you to come, I advise you to go back and hide. ...

Hide back and forth-come with me to Hoh Xil!

I know that Hoh Xil is the film Hoh Xil directed by Lu Chuan. During the National Day holiday in 2004, I went to the cinema alone. Because I didn't get a ticket for Kill Bill, I had to watch an unpopular movie. I won't go into details about the plot. I planted a seed with a little touch and yearning. Eight years later, it really blossomed and I went to Hoh Xil. So, thanks to Director Lu Chuan and his team.

Let's talk about altitude sickness first-I don't have any preparation or knowledge reserves. I was told that altitude sickness was something I had to overcome when I went to Tibet. It seems to be a test paper, or an admission ticket, a pass ... I also have concerns. I specially went to the sauna in the bath center to experience the feeling. If this is for consumption, that is, the daily experience of the northeast people once a week, there is basically no burden and pressure, but if I want to experience altitude sickness and hypoxia.

However, the real situation is quite gratifying. I have no altitude sickness, not at all, so I don't feel sick. I concluded that the feeling of high reflectivity is very similar to that of choking a large glass of Erguotou (or any hard liquor) and then doing sit-ups.

Not dizzy, dancing dizzy;

Not expansion, but expansion and shouting;

Not confused, but confused to ride a roller coaster;

Basically, the brain becomes like a glass ball dangling from its head. This is altitude sickness!

It has nothing to do with physical condition, wealth, low-key propaganda, race and nationality, gender, health diseases, age and identity ... Later, I can only admit one explanation: this is fate.

Hoh Xil is not in Tibet, but in Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the southwest of Qinghai Province, covering an area of about 45,000 square kilometers. It is an alpine platform across Qinghai, Xinjiang and Tibet, with harsh natural conditions, with an annual average temperature of-10.0 4. 1 and a minimum temperature of -46.2.

It means that there is no summer here and human beings can't survive for a long time. Since 1970s, Tibetan antelopes and expensive fluff called "Shahtoosh" have made poachers famous all over the world. It is a fact that you can hardly see Tibetan antelopes and you can't buy shahtoosh.

But the threat to life still exists. So we set out from Golmud, the nearest city to Kunlun Mountain Pass, early in the morning. It was a little cloudy that day, but the Tibetan area in April did not enter spring.

Or, because the snow mountain glacier has not melted, the amazing mobile phone desktop or computer screen saver is not PS, but presented to you for free ... We had breakfast in Golmud, filled with oil, filled with oxygen pillows, and bought red bull and Snickers. At nine o'clock this morning, I'm sorry, there is a two-hour time difference between here and the mainland, so it's dawn. We set off for that place called Hoh Xil.

I have to tell you, the first time I went to the entrance of Kunlun Mountain, I felt like I was ... kneeling down and taking orally, about one kilometer. There are two stone pillars, one of which says "Wei Kunlun" and the other says "ancestor of Wanshan". Between the two pillars, you can see the continuous snow-capped mountains in the distance. This appearance can't be imitated by any computer special effects.

A straight road passes through two stone pillars (later, I passed through Hoh Xil several times, and every time I came here, I was gearing up and my adrenaline soared, as if I were riding a roller coaster), and this road that accompanied me for more than 2,000 kilometers was the magical "Heavenly Road" until the holy land Lhasa.

Why is it called Heaven? I sum up two reasons. First, countless PLA soldiers and Tibetan compatriots have built this lifeline from Han to Lhasa with their blood and lives, one meter and one kilometer. Second, with an average altitude of more than 4,600 meters, the veritable Heavenly Road is almost the ultimate test of the human body. Its code name is "National Highway 109".

After crossing the mountain gate, I entered Kunlun Mountain. Vastness is the bath of the soul, which washes away the filth in your heart a little. Because of lack of oxygen, you will gradually become dull, so hallucinations will follow. At this time, whether it is cold or hot, you must open the window, otherwise you will really be suffocated or suffocated. At this time, the stereo can finally be tuned to Yang Jinlanze's "Take the train to Lhasa", and you will fully understand the meaning of the lyrics. You can even feel why the singer's singing is a little breathless, because … I'm really breathless! ! !

No trees, no flowers.

But you will see the Kunlun Mountain Mineral Water Plant, and I don't need to advertise at all. This is definitely the most reassuring water in China, because, because there are hundreds of millions of years of glaciers behind the factory, people in the car pass by the waterworks with their mouths open. No wonder it is a bit difficult to sell this price and transport it to the mainland.

At this time, I took out a Snickers and chewed it. Even if it doesn't move, you are constantly wasting your strength. It's like someone pressed the fast forward button for your life with a remote control. You don't know what will happen or what you will face. Because there are modern civilized cars, mobile phones, GPS and drinks, I am not afraid, and I don't need to worry. It's only a short journey, but when the car is not full of normal gasoline, there is no signal on the mobile phone at all.

You can light a lighter with only a little flame in this magical place called Wooden Knife Beam and show it off to friends like you and me. In this place, the noodles are not well prepared, people are depressed because they don't want to talk, lighters can't be lit, the cigarettes they smoke are all the same taste, and nothing they drink can quench their thirst (it is not recommended to smoke and drink in Mudaoliang, which is really life-threatening! )

We were told that there is no no man's land in Hoh Xil, 800 kilometers ahead. I'm a little nervous and excited. I am here. Anyway, I can't go back, so go ahead and go higher. Don't eat the food in this hotel, because it's not cooked at all and the noodles are not cooked. Boiling water is steaming on the stove, but you can safely put your hand into the kettle, which is actually only 60 degrees Celsius.

Hehe, this is the first time that Hoh Xil has given you the run-don't be picky. Stop telling me about taste. It's good to have food. You can eat or not.

Swallowing some familiar but unfamiliar food, we continued on our way and officially entered Hoh Xil. I was immediately frightened. I almost cried when I saw the road signs of Kunlun Mountain and Hoh Xil. How did I come to such a barren place from the comfortable Beijing? No man's land is not only empty, but nothing. Can you understand? No one, no water, no electricity, no cell phone signal, no grass, no buildings.

In other words, we are already in the sky. Speaking of this, it may be a little far from reality, unable to empathize, and even make reading itself a distance. This is not my intention.

Ok, put an advertisement: when I came to Tibet, there was one thing that I would never eat again when I returned to the mainland, and that was yogurt. If you are lucky enough to have eaten yogurt on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, if you have eaten it in a herder's tent, if you are surprised by the yellow milk skin on its surface, and if you are impressed by its rich taste, then you will definitely despise all products blended with thickener. ...

In fact, there are too many stories to tell in Hoh Xil. What I want to say is not how lucky I am. I think you should feel the fate here.

For example, my fate, I took my father, who is nearly sixty years old, through Hoh Xil twice, once through cloudy Hoh Xil, and once through sunny Hoh Xil happily. I saw its vastness and infinity, and I also realized its vastness and tolerance. Like a wise man and a guru, he said nothing but set an example. Is unattainable, so you don't have to fantasize about your fame and fortune.

Whether you are tall or thin, strong or weak. You can witness with your own eyes that all the metaphysical perceptions brought by this natural wonder are confirmed by the true feelings of the five senses. The clear color in your eyes, the cold wind whistling in your ear, the fragrance of butter in your nose, and the unspeakable astringency of your tongue, you reach out and touch the pure earth. ...

Then the question is, is it so poetic? Is it so beautiful and comfortable?

Of course not. This is a beautiful illusion. This illusion will become more and more real with the blue sky and white clouds grassland pasture in 1080p HD 3D. If there is a sound at this time, what do you think it should be? Is it a melodious ancient song? Or is it a street song that is brainwashed by the secular?

The sign "Welcome to Hoh Xil, the hometown of Tibetan antelopes" is less than 100 meter away from the sign "Kunlun Mountain is 4767 meters above sea level". The former is green and the latter is blue. This place is not a viewing platform or a gateway, but here, it is just a form, it will be.

There is not only the Monument to Heroes on Sonam Avenue. Not only because of many legends of Kunlun Mountain, but because you should catch your breath here, get some air and get off for a walk. I dare say that whenever someone comes here, there will be a feeling that the wind blows over you. It can't be described as cold here, because there are no trees in Tibet, only less than 10 centimeters of turf, so the vegetation is precious, which seems to have nothing to do with Hoh Xil, because it is out of place in any season, and that kind of desolation can be summarized as despair.

You stand where you are and look around. As far as you can see, there have never been any obstacles. In the distance, heaven and earth blend together. You don't know its name. In short, it is called "distant place" for short. It is no different from the nearby places, as barren and as full of despair. Young you, arrogant person, ask yourself, what are you proud of? It's just sentient beings in the mountains, and there is no difference. If you really think that life here is much better than Tibetan antelope, you are really wrong. If you insist on having money but no time, you can't take a "just leave" trip. ...

I have to tell you, this is all an excuse. Travel is just a form. If you can feel anything while swimming, eating and bathing, then you don't need to come here. The people who really need to come to Hoh Xil are those who are numb to their ideals and dreams, feel extremely awesome, feel depressed, feel that the whole world is sorry for themselves, and feel that they just missed an opportunity ... going for the first time and sitting in the middle of the national road.

This is an extreme trip. Let's get this straight. This is the hinterland of Tibet. When you have time, you may not have enough money to support your journey. You are rich, but you are not eager to travel. You would rather endure the same coffee and dinner in the smoke than talk to the soul. Even if you have enough leisure and money to support this trip, your family objects and you are exhausted, or when you arrive here, you get altitude sickness and you can't reach the next stop. Even the delicious buttered tea, the simple Ciba and the hand-grabbed Lamian Noodles, you can't enjoy it, so you can't get through Hoh Xil only by Red Bull and Snickers. Therefore, it takes fate to come here.

Apart from "Tashi Lederer", I learned two sentences fastest in Tibetan, one is "Ga Pearl Krabs" and the other is "Qie". The former means "gratitude", not simply "thank you". The Tibetan word of thanks is "Kazhuo".

Gazhen can better reflect that when you are hungry, you find steaming tea in an ordinary noodle restaurant, but the temperature is only 60 degrees Celsius; When you live in a small hotel full of musty smell, the Tibetan boss kindly reminds you that no matter how cold it is, you must open the window when you sleep at night, or you will have a splitting headache the next morning. This is a mountain road where you have been running all day. A smiling and tanned Kangba man tells you that the gas station is just ahead 10 km. ...

At this point, you put your hands together and lower your head to whisper: Ga Pearl Krabs! The other person will reply with a sincere compliment with a smile, because it is a respectful expression and gratitude, followed by a "goodbye", which means long life. It's actually a farewell between Tibetans. The farewell we often say is a kind of expectation and expectation, and the farewell of Tibetans is full of blessings.

Imagine that everyone will say to each other at ordinary or important farewell moments: long life! In fact, it is the most unique blessing of this snowy plateau. The land is vast and sparsely populated, and the natural environment is extremely bad!

There was no sunshine all the way. In Wudaoliang, a strange town, I have said many times that there is a tasteless noodle on the snowy plateau, and I don't know how much gasoline is added. I don't know where I got enough oxygen. I will be grateful if I light a cigarette under the crosswind.

Although everyone's lips are purple, cheeks are swollen, and they are out of breath, it seems that they need traction when walking, and their backs are bent down, but it is this moment that we need to be grateful that nature cares for life so much that we can still breathe weak oxygen, maintain signs, advance, surpass ourselves and thank nature for letting us look at life. It is so great and terrible that it takes away people's perception and life at any time. It seems that all we ask for is delusion, and all we cherish is the bubble of dreams, which you can neither keep nor cherish. When our bodies reach the limit, what can't be let go?

The destination of Hoh Xil is not Tanggula Pass, but Tanggula Pass is definitely the best summary of this road.

Only when you witness the scene with your own eyes, only when you get off the bus, move forward slowly and regain your will, can you feel its grandeur and magnificence. I used to wander around confused, or arrogant, and felt that I was the center of the world and the protagonist of the story. Everything is my pain, my joy, haha, I'm afraid you feel the same way sitting in the plane cabin at this time … but when I stand at Tanggula Pass, do you know? I heard a voice that I have never recognized carefully in my life. ...

That's relaxation. The altitude here is 532 1 m: breathing, talking, even the pace, language and even thinking are slowed down. At this time, you can only hear the sound of the wind. You can see it swept away the clouds, and you can hear the whirring sound. At this time, your body feels a sense of permeability, regardless of how much you wear. In fact, you only need to take a deep breath and you can breathe for hundreds of millions of years.

You only need to feel it to know why it is still. The cloud that you can reach is not real, because it has never appeared in your dream. ...

How can I not forget my sadness, quietly give myself a minute and close my eyes? At this moment, you can also, whenever and wherever you see these words written by me, please close your eyes when you see them. The sky is getting bluer and your vision is getting wider and wider. ...