Talking about the scenery of Zhanjiang

Travel Notes of Jianghong Town, Suixi County, Zhanjiang City, Guangdong Province.

I finally came to this part of the story after sharing the scenery, culture and food of this unknown town with the stunning sunset on the island.

A town with a "story"

This is a peninsula fishing port with a small area. People travel between the sea, fishing boats and their homes every day, and their lives are simple and fulfilling.

When I first came to this island, the first thing I fell in love with was the large terrace on the top floor in the morning and the French window in the bedroom at dusk.

Looking out of the window, surrounded by the sea on three sides, the fresh blue suddenly filled my eyes.

This is a residential area, with small villages and deep alleys that extend far along the sea.

Walking in, the low old tile house is hidden in the middle of those colorful buildings that are emerging.

Walking inside, my feet are covered with moss.

Looking back now, compared with the beautiful seascape, my deepest travel memory of Jianghong Town is on the way to collect "anecdotes" of this town.

During the trip, it is often the "story-telling experience" behind the scenery that makes people remember deeply and unforgettable for a long time, rather than the beautiful scenery pictures themselves.

There are only two main streets in Jianghong Town. Walking on these two roads, I have a very deep feeling: the men in this town are very hard, while the women are "idle" most of the time.

Let's start our "story" with Men in Jianghong Town.

The man on the island

The owner of the homestay I lived in is Xiaoyu, 34 years old. He is the kind of man who has obvious "Jiang Hong characteristics".

Xiaoyu told me that Jianghong Town attaches great importance to "home" and "family style", which is a major event related to honor and disgrace, success or failure, and rise and fall, and most of them are decided by men.

The highest-ranking "principal" in this family is usually the eldest son, and then the eldest son inherits the mantle and the eldest son waits for the position.

For example, Xiaoyu is the eldest in the family and has two younger brothers. Big brother is the father, and he is the master at a young age.

Although the family property can be divided into more points, at the same time, the "main affairs" of the family are on his shoulders, and the responsibility is great.

Like most traditional families in the town, he has been wandering in Guangzhou for more than ten years and never dared to forget the principle of the eldest son.

In the process of our chat, goodwill and commitment are like "long" in the tone of every sentence.

This is the initial educational responsibility entrusted to him by the town where he was born and raised.

Only when a man has a sense of responsibility can he be credible, accurate, sincere and moved.

Some characters will accompany you for life. Wherever you go, Jiang Hong is the first nutrient.

Like a melon vine at the root of an old house, it gives you the simplest soil, rain and sunshine. It has grown tall and crawled away along the eaves, but the roots are still there, and the flowering results are unambiguous.

In Jianghong Town, men's lives are full of sense of ceremony.

[lighting]

When a boy reaches the age of one, he should invite the whole village to dinner, light a bamboo lamp and tie it with the ancient method in strict accordance with the traditional style, which is called "the lamp to clear the way for future generations".

Nowadays, fewer and fewer old gentlemen wear this kind of bamboo lamp, which has become an endangered handicraft on the island.

[married]

The day before a man gets married, there will be a special wedding ceremony at home.

Kill a black pig in front of your house first, and then kill a dozen chickens, each of which needs blood. Collect the blood and sacrifice it to ancestors, pray for the success of the family every year, and bless this "town closest to the sea" for the world.

So the most common animal I see in Jianghong Town is chicken, and every household keeps chickens. I often see women standing in the alley, calling the chickens in the alley to go home.

Status of women

The woman in Jianghong Town mentioned at the beginning looks "very laid-back".

They either get together to play mahjong in the afternoon, or sit alone at the door and silently weave fishing nets.

From time to time, a barefoot woman leaned against the door frame, and the probe kept looking at the alley mouth.

In the old alley, most of the people who stay to look after the house are women and the elderly.

I tried to communicate with these aunts many times, and all ended in failure. I met an uncle who can speak a few words of Mandarin. He said that all his children have gone to big cities, one in Shenzhen and the other in Zhanjiang.

Opposite their newly-built small building, there is also a low and damp old straw house built a hundred years ago.

During the Republic of China, some rich people could afford to build tile houses, while ordinary people could only live in thatched houses.

At that time, the status of women in Jianghong Town was very low, and there were many restrictions on "women's morality".

In Tomb-Sweeping Day, women can't go to the grave;

Women can't go back to their parents' homes at the age of 30 because they "destroy the reunion";

Women don't need to do heavy work, only washing, sweeping the floor and carrying on the family line are their main tasks.

……

I heard a story that a woman in the town was widowed when she got married for the first time, and her second husband died shortly after remarriage. Usually we call it a "small probability event", which is very unlucky in a small town.

As a result, rumors spread all over the city, and the outside world spread this woman "Foucault" in succession. Relatives dislike her, friends dislike her, and many people abandon her. Life on the island could not go on, so she had to move to another place, with the shadow of "lifting her head all her life" and finally died.

Sometimes "environment" is a terrible thing.

When you can't help being influenced by the habits of your superiors, you will change a person's mentality.

Confucius said, "Living in kindness is like entering Lan Zhi's room. If you don't smell its fragrance for a long time, you will blend with it. " Living with the wicked is like entering an abalone room. If you don't smell it for a long time, you will be integrated with it. "

Those who can keep a clear mind in the "hiding place of paint" are also for the wise.

Walking in the alley, I saw a woman sitting in front of her house, not very old, about 50 years old.

I used to chat with her. She was talkative and mumbled a lot. Unfortunately, I didn't understand a word of Leizhou dialect, so I recorded it quietly and translated it by Xiaoyu. These are small things:

The children at home work in Suixi city ... when it rains, the house leaks. ...

The environment will restrict a person's vision and cognition. This family is short-lived, and this is the "world" of small-town women.

When young people received higher education, they left the island and went to the outside world, and never came back.

Fortunately, the life of Jiang Hong people is much better now. Some very capable women, by selling fish, doing business and relying on higher education to "reshape their lives", have earned enough face for their families and are no longer bound by "status".

It's just that the comfortable and good tradition of "women don't have to work" seems to have continued.

Continuation of tradition

Jianghong folk customs are very simple, and people have been doing their duty for thousands of years.

In recent years, the transportation is convenient, and many foreigners have set their eyes on this "undeveloped land" and come to invest, do business, engage in maintenance and build farms ... The traditional thinking of "locals" and the divergent thinking of foreigners have collided on this small island, and the fate of Jianghong Town and Jianghong people has been rewritten unconsciously in the vast history.

[Simplification of old customs &; Refine]

There are several important festivals in Jianghong Town, such as Tomb-Sweeping Day, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival and Spring Festival.

In the past, the procedures of festivals were very complicated, and the time of burning incense lasted from the first day to the fifteenth day. When Xiaoyu took her mother to live in Guangzhou, her mother still kept the habit of returning to her hometown for hundreds of miles every once in a while, rain or shine.

It didn't take long for my mother to realize that young people were under too much pressure to pick up and drop off, and she was impatient.

As a last resort, my mother simplified the procedure and only burned incense on major festivals.

At first, I was worried that I was not "sincere" enough, and I would be "accused" of doing so. Later, I found that "it doesn't really matter" and settled in Guangzhou.

The change of people's ideology has always been a generation of new people to influence the old people.

"The world is yours in the final analysis."

The change of the overall style of Jianghong Town is also based on the change of people's ideology.

When young people have ideological conflicts with old people at home, we should give them more time to feel and appreciate the positive side, and gradually they will understand. Time can solve all problems-as long as you don't stop "changing"

[Please God&; Ancestor worship]

When I visited the people in the town, I was curious to see a small shrine that read "Happy ever after" and placed it above the hall where every household opened the door. Xiaoyu said that this small ranking was taken back from the ancestral temple in the town.

The ancestral temple in the town spent a lot of money to build, which is the most cohesive place in the town. The ancestral hall enshrines the tablets of ancestors who moved here in their early years. Sacrificing ancestors means "not forgetting one's roots".

[Witch &; Taoist priest]

In the past years, especially in Jianghong Town, a place near the sea, people can only find a temporary peace of mind in the face of natural forces that human beings can't overcome.

Up to now, there are still some very rich "witches" and "Taoists" living on the island, charging several thousand yuan at a time.

"This group of newcomers who have gone to college will probably lose their jobs when they grow up. They will eventually give up and change their destiny by their own hands. "

General Fu Bo.

If "God" is illusory, then the Fubo Temple in Jianghong is dedicated to a real hero.

It is said that during the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the national strength became stronger and stronger, and talents came forth in large numbers. This Fubo Temple is dedicated to General Lü budd, the hero of Huo Qubing's conquest of Xiongnu.

I can't find out the date of birth of Lubod, but I found some pen and ink about Suixi by looking through historical books.

"In the autumn of the fifth year of Ding Yuan, Lu Weiwei Bode was the general of Fu Bo. He went to Guiyang to get water ... Xianhui Panyu." At that time, Lü bode went south along the West Guangdong Belt and Road, passed through Zhanjiang and reached Hainan Island. Hainan was a wild place at that time. After Lubbock went, the Han Dynasty set up nine counties there.

Since then, Hainan Island has been formally incorporated into Chinese territory.

From the perspective of historical development, lubbock can be regarded as a person who has made great contributions.

Sima Qian praised Lu Bode for "wisdom and mind, and misfortune is a blessing". He made outstanding achievements in military service, and even was named Hou.

Lubbock was also "the first general of Fu Bo in the history of China".

Surrender to the waves-literally, it can be understood that this is a supreme honor that only ancient coastal areas have.

By the Ming Dynasty, the fishing port in Jianghong became more and more prosperous. Because of the shipwreck and the harassment of pirates, the town built a temple for the first general Fu Bo and prayed for peace.

Strangely, since the emergence of Fubo Temple, people here have never been seriously injured by seawater.

Remember the "Guangdong's nearest village to the sea" mentioned in my first travel note in Jianghong Town?

The most frequently asked question is: Is this house not afraid of being washed away by the sea? Aren't you afraid of being blown down by a typhoon?

Of course.

The first generation of old houses were built next to the beach dam. When the old house was hastily built, people lived there. Without piling, the typhoon came and fell.

Later, village cadres concentrated on taking everyone to rebuild dams and houses, and then regularly inspected coastal protection every year.

20 18 repair fubo temple in the town.

People living by the sea are facing an unknown world, and their spirits and hearts sometimes feel helpless and need "sustenance". General Fu Bo is like a "reassurance" in the town.

I don't think this is superstition, I regard it as a kind of "heroic belief".

On the way to travel, there is often a huge gap between many landscapes, cultures and our daily knowledge. We may not fully understand some ancient traditions, but we can respect them.

Xiaoyu said that since he can remember, Jianghong Town has been in good weather, with occasional minor disasters and no major disasters. Jiang Hong is a beautiful place, at least his generation is happy, stable and corning.

It is an "initial heart" of Jianghong Town and its people not to forget the kindness of predecessors and benefit future generations.

Island anecdote

Tell a few short stories unique to Jianghong Town.

Abnormal things 1: pork is more popular than gold.

Every holiday, pork is a must-have item for every household in Jianghong Town. The meat sellers were very busy in those two days, and everyone went to grab the most beautiful pieces of meat, which was in short supply.

Do people with flexible minds think that "business opportunities" are coming?

However, in Jianghong, prices never rise randomly, and how much is it on this day? So pork is sold out early in the morning, and people who go late can't buy gold.

Strange 2: There is no fresh water in such a big sea.

Jianghong Town has the largest sea area, but there is no fresh water in many parts of the island.

For example, several wells were dug around the homestay where I live, and no fresh water was produced, only salt water. Finally, I had to refer to the centralized water supply in the town. Perhaps the lack of fresh water has also affected the development of the island.

It is worth mentioning that there is an important monument at the entrance of Fubo Temple: the ancient well of Fu Bo Gemini General.

Legend has it that in the Western Han Dynasty, when Lubo passed by and found that there was no water to drink, the horse raised its hoof and dug a fresh water well for soldiers and villagers.

Today, these 2,000-year-old wells still have enough drinking water, and the graphics are clear, the sky is blue and the texture is very clear.

People who live nearby often carry buckets to pump water to their homes for drinking.

Strange 3: Rare "Prehistoric Civilization" in Leizhou Peninsula.

According to records, in 2003, archaeologists excavated a carp-shaped shell pier in an ancient village in Jianghong Town, and later named it "Carp Pier Shell Hill", which preserved traces of ancient people's life 8,000 years ago.

Strangely, the Leizhou Peninsula is 130 km deep from north to south, surrounded by the sea on three sides. In terms of geographical advantages, all counties and districts in Zhanjiang are "evenly matched".

Why did this "only" fall on Jiang Hong?

No conclusive research was found, but from the map, Jianghong Town is indeed a special place.

There is a small "bulge" in this town, and the homestay where I lived is located here. Although it is less than one kilometer, it is enough to form a sense of sight surrounded by the sea on three sides.

Just like a small bay, it makes people feel safe and practical.

In addition, there is a rare small ditch "hooked" into the land, so that a larger area of land can be nourished and more people can enjoy the warmth of "facing the sea".

It is like a "hand of God", "pointing" to this place, telling people that this is an auspicious and livable land, come on!

The sun is about to set, and people returning home are slowly coming from the seaside at the corner of the lane.

People live in the collision between the old times and the new life every day, and experience round after round of landscape changes in Jianghong Town.

"Warm people village, Yi Yi market smoke. In the deep alley where dogs bark, chickens call mulberry trees jump. "

Isn't this the seclusion that Tao Yuanming has been looking for?

postscript

Finally, Jiang Hong is more suitable for traveling twice a year.

One is the Dragon Boat Festival.

Every Dragon Boat Festival, Jianghong Town is more lively than the New Year. Dragon boat teams from several nearby coastal provinces will gather in this bay to celebrate collectively. It can be said that without Jiang Hong and Zhanjiang, we would never see such a "dragon boat crossing the sea" scene again.

The second is to open a fishing festival.

From August to September every year, Jianghong Fishing Port will usher in a bumper harvest season. Zhanjiang's most famous fishing festival is held here. The whole port is crowded with people and all kinds of seafood. If you want to eat the freshest and delicious seafood, you can take this day to taste it.

I'm Sister Dahong, the anchor of the audio radio travel channel, a professional traveler, focusing on minority games and sharing unpopular destinations. Travel is not an attitude, but life itself.