Does National pits 1573 really have a history of 437 years?

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Yesterday, this newspaper reported that the 50-year-old Maotai vintage wine rose by 7,000 yuan in two years, which attracted the attention of many readers and caused them to question the 50-year-old Maotai vintage wine. A reader called and pointed out: "According to the current year of 2008, the wine produced 50 years ago was 1958. At that time, the food was very tight, and the production of the winery arrived as scheduled. How can there be extra wine to sell today? "

1958 is there any extra wine?

The reader said that 1958 was the time when China was "refining steel" and "people's commune". In addition, China suffered three years of natural disasters. Who dares to brew vintage wine with a large amount of grain until today? The 1970s and 1980s were the period of planned economy in China. At that time, state-owned or collective enterprises were all produced according to the national planned indicators.

No matter whether it is a famous winery or a small winery in China, who will have the foresight to predict that 30 or 40 years later will be the era of vintage wine? Who can coordinate with the government and deliberately approve more grain indicators for vintage wine production? If the 20-year or 30-year aging is real for old famous wineries, and there is a large storage capacity, it is necessary to produce according to the planned indicators, and put it on record in the municipal, provincial planning department, commercial department or light industry department. But so far, no planning commission, commercial department or light industry department has published similar data to confirm how many tons of base wine a winery sealed in that year. China's old famous wines have been in short supply, and the prices are rising. But why are so many old wines coming out now?

In addition, Maotai is a maotai-flavor liquor, and the age of maotai-flavor liquor is only 9 months. To further complete the whole fermentation process, Maotai-flavor liquor needs to be stored for 2 to 3 years, which is the so-called aging process. Maotai-flavor liquor volatilizes 2%~3% alcohol every year during storage. If you really store Moutai for 80 years and then take it out, you may not even smell it.

"Base wine" does not exceed 3 yuan at most?

In response to this question, the reporter contacted Kweichow Moutai (love stocks, quotes, information) yesterday, and relevant people refused to give a positive answer. It is reported that Kweichow Moutai once said that the so-called "aged Maotai" is actually "not all real aged wines" and is made by blending old wine with new wine, but the blending ratio is a trade secret. Since the birth of "vintage wine", the industry has not raised questions and requirements in this regard, and it is not convenient for manufacturers to clearly mark the specific content.

Yang Qingshan, a famous liquor marketing expert in China, believes that many consumers think that vintage wine bottles 100% should be time-marked wines. In fact, on the contrary, vintage wines are mostly blended as "flavoring wines", and bottled 3% vintage wines are usually good, which is different from foreign wines. According to Yang Qingshan's understanding, the 50-year Maotai vintage wine with the price of 1 1888 yuan should only contain 3 yuan's "50-year base wine", that is to say, except 3 yuan's "50-year base wine", the rest can be replaced by the current Moutai, even if it is calculated at 728 yuan per bottle at present. How much can the "aging" of these three dollars change the quality of the whole bottle of wine?

Three years and 30 years of aging taste the same.

Li, executive deputy director of the Expert Technical Committee of Guangdong Liquor Industry Association and director of the Liquor Supervision and Evaluation Committee of Guangdong Liquor Industry Association, said that ordinary consumers simply can't taste the difference between three-year aging and thirty-year aging, because after three years of aging, the taste of liquor is the same. Li also said that modern technology is very developed, and many manufacturers also use some chemical raw materials to precipitate new wine and even blend the color and flavor of old wine for many years. As an ordinary consumer, how can you tell the difference between 1000 yuan and 500 yuan wine? It is precisely by grasping the deficiency of consumers' discriminating ability that merchants play the concept card to speculate on the prescription.

It is understood that there is no general testing standard in China, and there is no special department to test the aging ratio and aging year of wine, so wineries will not indicate the aging content on the product packaging. A bottle of 10 wine, like other wines, is only marked with water, sorghum and wheat on the ingredient list, but it does not indicate whether the whole bottle is aged in 10 year or contains ingredients in 10 year, and there is no standard to force manufacturers to indicate it now.

It is reported that Wuliangye (Love Shares, Quotes and Information), Jiannanchun and Fang Shuijing (Love Shares, Quotes and Information) have different views on vintage wine. For example, what is used to determine the year? Some say it is based on the production date of liquor, while others say it is based on the year of wine cellar. What's the right amount of alcohol for a bottle of wine? Some say at least 30%, some say it should be above 50%, and some think it is more reasonable to set it directly as 100%.

Wuliangye once said that the vintage wine should be 100% of the vintage wine, which is definitely the case. As for some enterprises, they said, "As long as the proportion of that bottle of wine is the base wine stored for 50 years, it can be called 50-year vintage wine." This is a joke. Everyone in the industry knows that pottery pots have oxygen permeability. Wine is stored in clay pots for better oxidation. Oxygen can enter, and the wine inside can evaporate naturally. If the storage time is too long, the alcohol content will gradually decrease and eventually become carbon dioxide and water.

■ Extended reading, misunderstood vintage wine

Vintage wine was first popular abroad, which is a concept of grading wine, brandy, whisky and so on. Because of its relatively long development time, the standards and inspection methods of this classification are relatively mature. There is a special wine law or wine code abroad to standardize management and refine it to grape producing areas, brewing, storage and circulation. Vintage wine marked with "year" is a further subdivision of wines such as wine, brandy and whisky. Generally, the labels of foreign wines with year marks need to include the following contents: winery name, wine name, grape variety, bottling produced by the winery itself, name and address of the producer, alcohol concentration, name and capacity of the wine producing area, harvest year of wine grapes and so on.

Even if the wine is marked with a year, the longer the year, the better. The quality of wine products in a certain year is closely related to the quality of grapes in that year, the climate and environment of brewing, and the degree of oxidation during storage. Only when all the conditions are met at the same time can the wine named after the year of the year be called Jiubao. As for the quality of aged liquor in China, there is nothing more for consumers to know except "mane aging" or "mane wine".

In China, the so-called vintage wine is actually "aged" wine, that is, after the wine is brewed, according to the technological requirements, the winery stores the new wine to reduce its spicy taste, let the wine age naturally for a period of time, and make its taste and fragrance more mellow and fragrant. Generally speaking, the storage and aging time of Fen-flavor liquor takes about one year; Luzhou-flavor liquor for about three years; Maotai-flavor liquor is about 5 years old. From the perspective of brewing technology, the term "vintage wine" in liquor industry is not the same as that in foreign countries.