Everything has spirit, as long as it is gentle.

? I am a person wandering in the mountains and rivers. Because I am engaged in the tourism planning industry, I have been to many undeveloped places. Those beautiful places have their own charms. I was lucky enough to witness their original appearance and left an indelible impression on me, whether it was the scenery or the people.

? The most beautiful scenery in China is in the west. The great development has brought out countless beautiful pearls from the west and presented them to the world. Recently, I often receive ever-changing digital business cards from my peers. Every time I open them, every beautiful picture will be inexplicably familiar and kind, awakening my sleeping memory again and again.

Seeing that the wilderness I walked through step by step in the past has now become a thoroughfare, let me sigh that hard but unparalleled journey.

Among them, what impressed me the most was a place called Copugou.

It has been more than ten years of experience.

This place belongs to Batang County. I looked at it on the map. Batang is a small point at the junction of Sichuan and Tibet. Copugou doesn't even have a name on the map.

More than a decade ago, the road conditions in Tibetan areas were not ideal. We started from Chengdu, and the car climbed the mountain and came down again. We experienced traffic jams at the top of the mountain, landslides and roadbed collapse on the hillside ... The two-day journey was both thrilling and dangerous. Fortunately, the beautiful scenery and picturesque colorful forests along the way make up for some regrets of the hard journey.

The next day, after Litang Gaocheng, we continued to March to Tibet, with Batang in front. Although the geographical altitude is gradually decreasing, the local folk customs are getting worse.

Roads were being built everywhere at that time. There is a section of dirt road that is narrow enough for only one car to pass through. Unfortunately, shortly after we drove in, a big truck came along. We stopped and the driver looked back and forth, trying to figure out how to get on the wrong bus. The big truck drove up without hesitation and directly pressed on our front. The door of the cab creaked and a Tibetan youth jumped down. He was covered in dust, with a hooked nose, curly hair and a robe wrapped around him at will. He went straight to the window of our driver Li, pulled out a machete at his waist, knocked out half the glass, raised his eyebrows, stared at us like a wolf, and asked coldly in half-baked Chinese, "Is your car reversing?" This is not an inquiry and discussion. The driver looked at him and immediately nodded and replied, "Yes." And then immediately back out. This is really a duel, which makes us feel uneasy.

? It was already dark when we reached the mouth of Kupu ditch. On the desolate and vast Yuan Ye, there are only two temporary shacks built by the road construction team. Batang County is still far away and the road conditions are not good. We decided to stop at the cabin and go straight into the ditch the next morning.

? There are only two lesbians in the investigation team. In order to ensure our safety, my colleague arranged a small room in the middle of the second floor for me and another girl. We were about to have a rest when the group leader knocked at the door and told us to go down: "Today is the Mid-Autumn Festival, come down and eat moon cakes!" " "I yawned and went downstairs exhausted. A group of people, each with a moon cake and a cup of boiling water, spent the most humble Mid-Autumn Festival in their lives in a simple shed with air leakage everywhere. I didn't have my own home at that time, so I didn't want to express my homesickness. I just want to sleep after dinner, because I am too tired and sleepy.

It was cold all night. I lay down with my clothes on and fell asleep trembling.

After dawn, the horse bureau of the local tourism bureau came from the county seat. I thought Copugou was just a small scenic spot, but I was surprised to see the map he brought. The ditch is long and narrow in front and spacious in the back. After driving for at least a day, I can only live in the deepest temple at night.

At that time, the popularization of science ditch was completely primitive and rich in geothermal resources. Steam rises in the ditch, blurring the mountains and valleys, and the air is filled with a strong smell of sulfur. Some locals bathe naked in roadside hot springs, and they don't avoid people at all.

We stop and go, the altitude is getting higher and higher, the road is getting thinner and more bumpy. Halfway up the hill, a big stone suddenly appeared in the middle of the narrow road. As soon as the driver stopped, many people suddenly rushed out of the mountain, surrounded our car and slapped the window.

? A word pops up in my mind: ringing horse! Professor Chen next to me whispered, "put on your hat and cover your face!" " "

? I suddenly became extremely nervous and scared. I was so nervous that I lowered my hat brim and secretly looked for weapons that I could use. Although I only touched a bottle of water, I quickly held it in my hand.

? A strange young man stuck out his head and looked at me. I looked down. He pointed to the mineral water bottle clenched in my hand and asked, "Can I drink this water?"

? I had to pass him the water silently.

? He pointed to my bag and asked, "Can I have this bag?" I was embarrassed, hesitated, and he reached for it.

? Just then, the horse arrived. He jumped out of the car and shouted like thunder. Because he speaks Tibetan, I can't understand it. In short, the group moved the stone in the middle of the road and watched us leave.

? We are relieved. This trip is really not smooth, very different from the past. A colleague muttered, "These two places are really messy. I don't know what dangers lie ahead. Why are there so many twists and turns in this behavior? "

? Old Xugong comforted us and said, "As the saying goes, there are many good things. We have experienced these setbacks, and the front will be suddenly enlightened. Perhaps this is the test that the Buddha gave us! "

? Although what he said was a joke, it really made our depressed hearts jump again. Yes, it must be worthwhile to come here after so much effort.

? The car continued to dance wildly on the rugged mountain road, which made me dizzy.

? Soon, a steep slope appeared in front of us. The car roared like an old cow, gasped and rushed up like a fly. At that moment, I felt a strong sense of weightlessness, like rushing directly into the low blue sky.

? The car landed on the ground, and the endless prairie miraculously appeared before my eyes. Boundless green bathed in the sun, winding rivers criss-cross, straight into the sky, so low, so close, slowly, DC turned into a cloud!

? There are boulders everywhere on the grassland, and six words of truth are engraved on a boulder in bright red color: those six loud and solemn Tibetan characters stand under the blue sky, which shocked me to speak.

? Professor Chen is an expert in geology. He pointed to those boulders and said excitedly to me, "You know, these boulders are the best proof. This used to be an ocean! " I look around this grassland, and I can't describe the beauty of this land in words.

? Ma smiled and said, "Beauty is yet to come. You have never seen Tian Tongshu, Zajin Jiabo Mountain, Rock Sheep and Fish! "

? What's strange about sheep and fish?

? I was puzzled, and I vaguely saw a dark green light spot in the distance along the direction of his finger, so I couldn't help looking forward to it.

? There is no road on the grassland, so the driver simply relaxes and drives at will. The car rushed into a shoal, suddenly gave a short cry and completely stalled. It's getting dark and there is only wind on the grassland. We tried to call for help, but there was no signal. So we were trapped on the grassland and watched the sun set bit by bit. Looks like we're going to spend the night in the car We young people are not afraid of the cold. Can a few old experts resist it?

Fortunately, at sunset, there was the roar of trucks in the distance. An old truck came slowly towards us. We seemed to see reinforcements and shouted and waved desperately to the car.

? The truck came towards us and stopped in front of us. There are only the driver and two Chueh-min on the bus. They came back from the county seat to buy food. After some communication, the driver promised to take us to the ancestral temple. We got out of the car quickly and threw our bags on the truck. You pulled me, and I pulled you into the truck and drove to the dark green point in the west.

? We lay prone on the iron railing of the back compartment of the truck, watching the afterglow of the sunset dye the residual clouds on the horizon rust red, and felt like a figure in the educated youth era with the feeling of surviving the robbery. After difficulties and obstacles, we finally set foot on the road home.

The truck is driving and the dark green spots are getting bigger and bigger. I found that this is not a scenic spot at all, but a large forest surrounded by a huge lake. The moon rises to the sky and shines through the cracks in the dense branches and leaves from time to time. The cooing of the owl rings in my ear from time to time, and something crackles, far away and near. The back of the truck is open and unobstructed, and it seems that monsters will come at any time in the darkness. ...

? After driving in the dark forest for a long time, the truck finally saw the dimly lit small temple-Cuopu Temple. Behind him stands a pyramid-shaped gray-black mountain peak, holding a knife and axe and looking down at the earth motionless. I think that's the famous Zakingabo Mountain.

? The two Chueh-min said goodbye to us. They showed me where they lived and built a small house on a raised rock halfway up the mountain in the distance.

? There are only three or four monks in the temple. They have rested. When they saw our arrival, they made a fire, burned butter tea for us and laid the floor for us in a hall.

? When the tea was boiling, a young monk was carrying a copper pot and bent down to pour tea for us to drive away the cold. The steam of butter tea is dense, and the dim light in the small temple shines on his smiling face, so peaceful and compassionate. At that moment, all the darkness around me disappeared, my heart was calm, and I had a good sleep.

The next morning, I woke up in that small temple near the mountain and lake, and the golden sunshine came in from the window, which completely changed the world! I looked out of the window. The dark green forest and the sapphire lake are really a fairy tale garden and fairy tale world.

I hurried out of the temple gate, and the monk in red was holding out a large basin of white salt and heading for Zakinga Mountain.

The Zhajin Jiabo Mountain, which came out in the dark, turned into a god in a gray shirt, with a clear sky above his head and a Yun Jian tied around his waist. At his feet, he was a thousand miles away, glaring at the red sun rising in Ran Ran in the distance. It stands in front of me, majestic, tall and generous. I can only look up, and there is no little me in its eyes. That unshakable arrogance made me hold my breath and pay homage.

? I couldn't help following the footsteps of the monk in red to the holy mountain. He walked up the hillside, put down the big iron basin in his hand, held white salt in his hands, and while chanting, sprinkled salt on the gray rocks on the hillside.

? "What is he doing?" I asked the horse bureau.

? The horse bureau replied, "He is calling sheep."

? Can a sheep still bark? I watched curiously.

? After sprinkling salt, the monk was so angry that he shouted a few times. His voice echoed in the mountains and spread far away. I stared at the mountain, and the sun shone on the gray rock, bright and unchanging. After a while, the light spots on the distant rocks seemed to jump a few times, and then more light spots jumped up. Then, those dots move towards us, getting closer and closer. I rubbed my eyes hard and saw clearly the curved brown horns on their heads: it's not light, it's a gray wild rock sheep close to the mountain!

? Many rock sheep come down slowly from the mountain. They are walking on the steep hillside. Rock sheep, big and small, paid no attention to me as a curious bystander. They gathered from all directions, slowly licked the salt on the stone, and then dispersed to the mountains.

"It's amazing!" I can't help admiring.

The monk stood there with a big iron basin and read the scriptures for a while. A rock sheep came and looked up at him. The monk squatted down and said something to it. In a short time, the rock sheep galloped and chased the army.

? When the monk came down, I asked curiously, "Can the sheep understand you when you talk to it?"

? The monk replied seriously, "Everything has a spirit. How can you not understand?"

? This sentence echoed in my mind all morning.

After breakfast, we are ready to start our investigation. Two other monks in the temple held a big cloth bag and told us to wait for us on the other side of the lake, and then hurried into the forest.

? We rode through the forest. The wind is blowing, and the dark forest is covered with colorful flags everywhere. When the wind blew and fluttered, I suddenly realized that it was the voice that scared me last night.

? After passing through a small cave, a very simple shelf was set up at the entrance of the cave, and a coarse cloth curtain was erected.

? Ma Bureau said that this is the place where practitioners live. We took the liberty of paying a visit at the mouth of the cave.

? A thin black man came out and looked at us a little shyly. The horse began to talk to him. He can't speak Chinese, so Ma acts as our interpreter and communicates with him.

? "How long have you been here?"

? "Almost two years."

? "How long will it take?"

? "More than a year, it will take three years."

? I looked curiously into the hole and was taken aback. It was much narrower than I expected, so I made a simple bed and hung some utensils for eating and living on the wall. I can't imagine how a person can live in such a small hole for three years.

? I can't help asking, "Are you alone? How can I practice here for three years? "

? It seems that he was asked this question and thought for a while before answering: "chanting, meditation and listening." There are many things to do. "

? Pointing to the prayer flags, he said, "I wrote a scripture on the prayer flags, and the wind turned the prayer flags over and over again, and chanted with me." I will sleep at night, but the wind won't. It will keep chanting. " It is my best companion. I also often go to Tiantongshu to communicate with the gods in heaven. I also often go to the mountains to listen to the teachings of mountain gods. The mountain god said that everything has the spirit of becoming a Buddha, and I just need to do it day by day. "

? Wind? I looked up at the fluttering flags blankly.

? I almost never pay attention to the unusual wind that exists all the time in my life. I didn't expect the wind to be so romantic and pious in the eyes of practitioners.

? We thanked the yogi and moved on. In the dense forest, many pine branches were artificially tied into a circle. Ma Bureau explained to us that the local people believed that everything would be smooth if the pine branches could be tied into a circle with one hand and not broken. Because of the protection of Zakingabo Mountain God and Tongtian Tree, they believe that the trees in this holy place are also spiritual. As soon as we heard this, we stopped at once, trying to tie the knot with one hand and praying for good luck with the other. But it's not easy. Pine branches are slippery and easily broken. People who have no patience have failed.

? After observing for a while, I found an old tree with tough branches and leaves. I reached out my right hand to grab a dark pine branch and slowly began to circle. The mountain god seems to take care of me, and I succeeded! That knot gave me unexpected happiness, ha, now I'm all right!

? "You are so lucky. You have to make a wish to go to Tian Tongshu later! " The horse bureau said jokingly.

"Where is Tian Tongshu?" I asked eagerly.

? The horse bureau didn't answer me, craning its neck to look into the distance. After walking for a while, it raised its hand and pointed: "There!"

I saw a tall and colorful tree deep in the forest, reaching the sky.

This is probably the biggest tree here. But why is it colored? I flew past. A closer look reveals that the tree is covered with all kinds of clothes, such as necklaces, bracelets, vases, bows and arrows, and saddles. ...

? "What are those? Why put it on the tree? "

? "That's what local people pray for, and some of them are the relics of their deceased relatives at home. They believe that if you put the best things on this tree, your wishes will be heard by the gods in heaven, and the soul of the person you love will go directly to heaven ... "

? I looked at the tree and lost my mind.

? The tree stands upright, and the sunlight, like golden silk thread cast by the gods, connects the real world with the dreamland in the sky through the branches and leaves.

? I held my breath and approached. There is a brand-new little girl dress and Tibetan robe hanging on the right branch of the tree, and there is an equally brand-new plush panda doll on the sleeve. The beautiful embroidery on the Tibetan robe shines brightly, and the sunshine gives the panda doll a warm and soft aura. Tears slowly soaked my eyes. Presumably, with the endless love of her parents, the little girl has climbed the tree ladder and is with the gods!

? I seem to understand the meaning of "animism" mentioned by the monk in red.

After leaving Tian Tongshu, we returned to Lake Topu and walked along the shore. Without the shelter of the forest, the burning sun on the plateau directly shone on my face, and in a short time, I was sweating and my face was very red. I thought of the six-character motto, so I meditated in my heart, hoping to cool myself down by calming down.

? ,,……

? Suddenly, the light dimmed. I looked up at the sky, and there were several clouds in the original blue sky, which just covered our lake shore.

? Did the gods hear my prayers?

? I was in a good mood and watched it several times in a row. While walking, I looked up from time to time for fear that the clouds would run away. It's always there, covering my head firmly.

? Unconsciously came to the afternoon. We finally reached the other side of the lake. The two monks who set out with us have been waiting at a Xiao Mu table by the lake.

? We jumped off the horse and asked the horse bureau, "What do you want?"

? "It's time to call the fish," said the horse bureau.

? I was shocked again.

? Calling sheep opened my eyes. How to call a fish? Sheep have ears and can hear, but can fish under water also hear?

? I stared quietly, and I was very excited.

? A monk stood on the platform of Xiao Mu, put his two hands into a "trumpet" to his mouth and shouted: "Whoops ~"

? In a short time, a slight wave appeared on the calm dark blue mirror, and large and small fish swam to the shallow shore from a distance, as light as flying. Soon, many small fish on the water opened and closed their mouths and hit the lake like raindrops on a sunny day. It was very spectacular and interesting. Another monk took out a large piece of Ciba from a big cloth pocket, crushed it and scattered it on the wide lake. The lake immediately looked like boiling water, and the fish began a carnival feast.

I open my mouth like a fish. If I hadn't been there, I wouldn't have believed this scene was true.

A colleague sighed and murmured, "The twists and turns we experienced before were really worth it. Life here is so harmonious. If you were in the city, these fish would have been fished out and made into spicy fish! "

? We all stopped to watch the monks chanting, their red robes were flying and the fish were flying in the waves. No one spoke, but they all had deep feelings in their hearts. At that moment, we believed that there was magical power and that man and nature could be a perfect whole without contradiction.

? Everything has a spirit. Jumping sheep, shallow fish, trees that convey wishes, singing winds and clouds that protect you ... When you are immersed in it and really wait, everything hugs you and pays you back with your heart.

? I looked from one end to the other and looked at the wide lake. Looking from a distance, Zajin Jiabo is like a compassionate Buddha, sitting in the clouds, gently embracing the quiet little Cuopu Temple with his generous mind. The temple is in the heart of Buddha, and the Buddha is natural in heaven and earth. It is not as grand as other big temples, but it is extremely solemn.

? The ubiquitous wind turns the banners full of scriptures in the forest, but in my ears, it turns into the chanting sound like a monk, echoing in the sky, Woods and lakes. ?

? Everything in the world, no matter where it comes from or where it goes, is essentially the same. The only difference is the way to know the world and exist in the universe. The way everything communicates is not language, but heart. Treat everything with tenderness and compassion and everything will treat you in the same way.

? My heart is full of tenderness, and a voice said to me: everything is me, and I am everything.