Hunan Phoenix, where is the border town?

Most people’s idea of ??Phoenix Enlightenment probably comes from Mr. Shen Congwen’s “Border Town”.

This ancient city of Fenghuang was built in the 43rd year of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1704). It is located in the southwest of Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in Hunan Province. It is known as "Pingyao in the North and Fenghuang in the South". It was praised by New Zealand writer Rewi Alley as the most beautiful town in China.

Shen Congwen gave all the beauty to the border town where he was born and raised. The story about a city, a river, a boat, a pair of grandparents and a love story is embedded in this simple and beautiful ancient city.

On the way to Fenghuang, I imagined that the Phoenix in my mind should be like a border town. On the picturesque river, there are waterwheels that keep turning, people walking on the smooth bluestone road, wooden The families who grew up in the exquisite stilted buildings were kind and simple, living like the sun and the moon, and living an idyllic life!

Although I knew that the ancient city would lose its original color due to the promotion of modern tourism, I never expected that it would be so completely changed beyond recognition. Fenghuang is still the same border town, but Cuicui is no longer the Cuicui it used to be.

Taking the bus from Zhangjiajie, my best friend and I arrived at Jishou Passenger Terminal after a bumpy 2-hour journey.

This urban area is not much different from other fourth-tier small towns, with crowded streets, cluttered stalls and shops.

Low and even somewhat dilapidated small buildings are densely arranged on both sides of the already narrow road. There is no vegetation, let alone the aura of the water town described in Shen Congwen's works. What is replaced is the dust mixed with the order. Disgusting car exhaust.

As soon as we got off the bus, local scalpers swarmed in. A group of experienced middle-aged men and women held crooked phoenix signs and said in local accents: Go to the ancient city, go to the ancient city!

Without asking what your intentions were, he pointed to an old van not far away, fearing that he would lose anyone’s business.

My friend and I dragged our suitcases along the uneven cement road and followed the direction of the navigation system, but we wondered in our hearts whether this remote and backward small town is full of outstanding people, the dreamy water town. Phoenix?

After about 10 minutes of arduous walking, following the sound of water, this ancient town submerged in modern towns emerged before our eyes.

After putting down the luggage, it was already nightfall, and the lanterns were on, and the Phoenix changed into a gorgeous face.

Driven by the lights, in a short while, the streets of the town were already busy. People from different places continue to pour into this splendid ancient city.

Walking through the dense crowds, the wooden stilted buildings and Ming and Qing Dynasty buildings on both sides of the bluestone road are still well preserved, while the wooden doors are replaced by businesses one after another. They change their tricks to attract tourists.

At the entrance of the ethnic musical instrument store, the owner with a sharp style plays the tambourine live along with folk songs.

The postcard shop is full of tourists’ notes and exquisite hand-painted business cards, and the clothing store hangs the same ethnic clothing and jewelry from across the country.

The people on the street are all wearing wreaths, sun hats or colorful ethnic scarves.

The same recipe, the familiar taste is so strong that I can no longer tell whether I am in Dali, Lijiang or Guilin’s West Street.

Seeing similar scenes in major scenic spots across the country makes me feel uninterested.

Excessive commercialization has made it impossible for the beautiful stilted building to tell the history of the past, leaving only a shell of it. Driven by commercial interests, this may be inevitable, but it should not be all.

What happened next made me feel deeply sad.

On the street of Qingshiban Road, I met an artist performing on the street. His singing moved me and I stopped.

I don’t know when a young lady appeared behind us. Seeing that we were fascinated by the music, she coldly motioned for us to pay for listening to the music!

I am very surprised that under the cloak of business, people have become snobbish. The kind of philanthropic, simple and honest spirit of the border town has disappeared.

Disappointed, we came to Tuojiang. The night in the ancient city is beautiful. On both sides of the Tuojiang River, the lights are even more brilliant. Downstairs on stilts are restaurants with late-night snacks and various bars with feasting and feasting.

The phoenix in the dimly lit place is like a huge drunken place, satisfying the desire of frustrated people to vent.

The deafening noise coming from bars with different folk songs made me numb.

People from all over the world crowded into this ancient city with the "Three Lost" (frustrated, lovelorn, and insane) people. I saw them waving their bodies to the music, getting drunk and carousing, playing and singing every night, wantonly. Enjoy the pleasure of this brief escape.

The various slogans on the roadside, "Amorous encounter, I have wine, do you have a story, life is not worth it" seem to be urging people to have fun to the fullest in life.

Such a drunken atmosphere made me uneasy. Apart from the bar, we had nowhere to stay. We had to deliberately escape the hustle and bustle and chose a quiet bar in a quiet alley. We ordered a beer and sat down. Listen to folk songs quietly.

The lead singer is holding a guitar. His voice is rich and rich, and his singing is filled with vicissitudes of life and stories. If it weren’t for his young face, I would have mistakenly thought he was a wanderer who has experienced wandering. I found my belonging here.

He said that the drummer next to him was a friend and had been in Phoenix for 10 years.

Today’s Phoenix is ??no longer what it was 10 years ago. At that time, the ancient city was not yet fully commercialized, and Xiangxi people still lived in the stilted buildings on the beautiful Tuojiang River. They still live a simple life, and the soil and water have created their optimistic, honest and kind-hearted personality.

I don’t know since when, hotels, inns, bars and restaurants have sprung up, spreading to every corner of the ancient city, and what Phoenix lost can only remain in his memory, turning into... Composed the narrative of the next song.

The only hint of a border town was encountered in the morning after leaving Phoenix. We got up very early. Phoenix in the early morning has not yet been invaded by tourists.

The quiet ancient city has a peaceful look that has passed through the years. The simple outlines of the stilted buildings and pavilions also became brighter, and I slowly discovered the beauty of this ancient town.

The quiet Tuojiang River reflects the brown wooden stilted buildings, the water wheel is still turning, and you can see local people setting up stalls to buy snacks on the bank of willows. Occasionally there are ferries floating on the clear river. I watched the boats on the shore and blended into the background of the water town in western Hunan.

I walked along the Tuojiang River in silence.

Fortunately, Phoenix has retained the original building, but unfortunately it has lost its original aura. Generations of people who have lived under this beautiful land have been replaced, taking away the essence.

In my heart, the border town no longer belongs to any place, it is just a paradise!

Tickets: Fenghuang Ancient City does not require tickets, but the eight major scenic spots in Fenghuang require tickets, which can be purchased individually or in a package.

Accommodation: There are many inns in Fenghuang Ancient City. It is recommended to stay in the lower reaches of the ancient city, or in the urban area, which is relatively quiet. The ancient city is very lively at night, which will affect your rest. If you are booking at an inn in the ancient city, be sure to ask for a seat. It is best to ask the innkeeper to guide you. Many inns in the ancient city are along narrow paths, and it is difficult to find a place without someone to guide you.

Basically every inn will give you a hand-drawn map of the ancient city, which is very practical.

Food: There are many food shops in Fenghuang Ancient City. The prices are not cheap. Most of them are restaurants opened by outsiders. It is recommended to choose restaurants outside the ancient city.

Regarding bars, try to choose bars with higher safety standards. Too many people may not be a good thing. The prices of bars on both sides of the Tuojiang River will be much higher. If you are not looking for excitement, you can go to the alleys in the ancient city. There are some unpopular small bars that are quiet and have a good atmosphere.

Transportation: Fenghuang Ancient City can be visited on foot. It takes about 1-2 hours to explore the entire ancient city. Because most of the streets are bluestone roads, it is recommended to wear cloth shoes.