Going south to Yunnan again (Ⅳ): Visiting Jianshui Ancient City

Since the poet Yu Jian's "The Story of Jianshui" appeared in the college entrance examination paper the year before, Jianshui, a small town on the southwest border, has been on fire again.

In The Story of Jianshui, the poet described the architecture, craft, food and lifestyle of Jianshui City, providing a realistic template of "poetic dwelling".

The poet thinks that the lifestyle of Jianshui ancient city is just a reference for the beautiful life that China people yearn for and look for.

How to truly understand an ancient city, an ancient building, and a ritual handed down from generation to generation; How to place a city and how to shelter the human mind-Jianshui ancient city, or can really give us some enlightenment.

But here I want to point out that what is described in Jianshui is about the ancient city of Jianshui in 215.

I always think that when we talk about Yunnan, we must pay attention to tense! Because every year, Yunnan is almost completely different from the previous year, and even beyond recognition.

In early 217, the day before the Lantern Festival, I arrived at Jianshui Ancient City alone, which was my first meeting with Jianshui.

suddenly more than four years, time flies by. After the New Year's Day in the year of Gengzi in 22, I accompanied my friends from my hometown to drive in Yunnan and see Jianshui again, but that time I was rushed in and out due to the sudden epidemic.

This trip to Jianshui is my third visit to Jianshui, so I call it "Visiting the Old with Jianshui".

let's talk about Jianshui ancient city first.

There is no doubt that Jianshui is a living ancient city, just like Weishan. Jianshui ancient city is larger than Weishan ancient city, with better location and richer and deeper tourism resources.

the poet Yu Jian said that Jianshui ancient city is a living museum. Any door, window, water tank, railing pottery calligraphy and painting in ordinary people's homes may all be a work of art.

there was a popular saying a few years ago: keywords. If we say the key words of Jianshui, it must be the following: old buildings, ancient houses, ancient wells, baked tofu, purple pottery, Yunnan-Vietnam train, food, and several conventional attractions inside and outside the ancient city.

The poet Yu Jian talked about the old buildings and ancient houses in detail in Jianshui Ji. In 217, during my half-month stay in Jianshui, I really saw a lot. Those doors and windows, water tanks and beam carvings are really worth seeing.

I remember one day, I walked out of the city and went to the Huangs Ancestral Hall in Xinfang Village, which was introduced by Lao Xu, a Yunnan-Vietnam Youth Travel Service.

under a whole eaves, it's all carved! Because they are too high and the carvings are too small, they can't be seen clearly, but you can still see their exquisiteness.

when I left, I stopped at the door and turned around: they were there, thin and beautiful, like a miniature gallery. For hundreds of years, I silently watched the years and couldn't bear to grow old.

at that moment, a complicated emotion suddenly came, and I was caught off guard and almost shed tears.

I just thought of a sentence: waste time on beautiful things.

Yes, people at that time really understood this sentence!

it's such a beautiful ancient city, but it's still torn down.

Tear down one street and tear down another-under the mighty city-building movement in China, how can you play with your personality?

Actually, to be honest, how many people in China are really interested in those original ecological ancient buildings and cultural relics? It is the peerless treasure of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, so what? !

Similarly, how many people in China are really interested in restored, rebuilt and imitated buildings and cultural relics? -yes.

It's just that the latter is easier to take pictures than the former, and it's more "photogenic" to take pictures.

according to Yu Jian, the poet, Jianshui didn't seem to be demolished, so something was left.

Today, in Jianshui ancient city, there are still several old areas. Alleys extend in all directions like cobwebs, and Zhumen courtyards abound. However, these courtyards have become miscellaneous courtyards, which have been torn apart during the land reform period, and there is no protection at all.

During my stay in Jianshui, I wandered around the ancient city almost every day. There were indeed many Zhumen courtyards in many alleys. Most of the gatehouses were dilapidated, and the paintings and sculptures on both sides were all destroyed. They were replaced by slogans of that special period-there was nothing to say except sigh.

Like Lijiang and Shiping, today's Jianshui is also the pattern of a new city with an ancient city. However, Jianshui City is different from Lijiang. It is not surrounded by lines. It takes only a few minutes to get from Jianshui Ancient City to Yuan Ye.

in the words of the poet Yu Jian, "the earth has not been driven away". The wind, sunshine and flowers are still around.

when it comes to the ancient well of Jianshui people and their well complex, there is really no one.

It is said that there are 128 wells in Jianshui, and many wells built during the Hongwu period of Ming Dynasty are still in use today. Moreover, each well has Longwang Temple and inscriptions.

There are famous wells in Jianshui City, including one well, two wells, three wells and four wells, Daban well and Xiaojie well, among which Daban well is the most familiar to tourists.

The well water of Dabanjing must be used to build water tofu, otherwise the taste will change. Therefore, many tofu shops are concentrated near the well, and they even made it on the spot near the well platform in the past, just for the convenience of getting water.

however, the local people think that the water in xiaojie well is the sweetest.

According to China on the Tip of the Tongue, Jianshui people know water very well, and they think that water can nourish people's spirituality and consciousness.

Yes, Jianshui people really know water, and they are also love the water. All you have to do is look at the deep strangulation marks on the bluestone along each well, which is shocking. Those deep marks show that thing called "years".

Besides the well complex, Jianshui people also have a complex handed down from generation to generation: the tofu complex.

Speaking of Jianshui Tofu, there is a folk song: Yunnan stinky Tofu, the number is Lin 'an Mansion ... Smelling stinky, eating fragrant, and panicking if you don't eat for three meals.

It is said that Jianshui stinky tofu originated in the Qing Dynasty. China on the Tip of the Tongue says that Jianshui stinky tofu is a subtle chemical reaction between wind, water, sunshine and tofu. He also said that Jianshui people will enjoy the taste created by air drying and fermentation.

that's true.

more than that.

Baked tofu, under construction, is not only a kind of food, but also a way of life.

Baked tofu stalls can be found almost everywhere inside and outside Jianshui ancient city, and every restaurant has set aside an area for it at the door.

It seems to be there forever. You can walk in at any time, sit down, enjoy yourself and pass the time.

you can also enjoy the food and watch the street view and scenery at the same time. At the same time, it has become a landscape in the eyes of others.

Jianshui's baked bean curd stand is very simple, just a square low table with iron grates and low benches on its four sides, which forms a physical business space, with the roast stall owner occupying one side and the other three sides being guests.

The strangers sit together, and once they sit down, they don't want to get up, but they will keep eating ...

There is another interesting custom in Jianshui's baked tofu stall, that is, the stall owner uses a small dish with many dried corn and dried broad beans in it, and several empty dishes are placed to represent the guests. The guest takes tofu and a piece from the fire grate himself, and the host throws a corn into the empty dish representing the guest to show the bookkeeping.

Tofu should be baked slowly, and people who eat it will talk while eating. Baked tofu stall is a "meal" that can be joined at any time, and it is open.

Milk-yellow tofu blocks, baked on the fire, become small and cute, full of gold and Huang Cancan, very cute. It is no exaggeration to say that this kind of thing, the size of Mi Zige, almost fills the whole life of Jianshui people.

The conventional scenic spots in Jianshui are relatively concentrated: Zhujia Garden, Chaoyang Building, Confucian Temple, and the shed for studying politics, all of which are very close to each other, all in the ancient city.

Outside the city, there are Tuanshan residential buildings, Shuanglong Bridge, Yunnan-Vietnam small train, Yanzi Cave, etc. The first three are also on the same line, and they can run through by Yunnan-Vietnam small train.

of course, new scenic spots have been continuously developed over the years.

On this trip to Jianshui, on the day I left, I took the No.919 bus to the railway station. The driver was a very talkative local middle-aged man with the style of my brother in Beijing.

According to him, there are several newly developed scenic spots in Jianshui, which many tourists still don't know, including the Yunlong Mountain Scenic Area in Nanzhuang.

He thinks the Yunlong Mountain Scenic Area is worth seeing. There are ancient temples and tea gardens, and the natural and cultural scenery is great.

There are Wulong Lake Ant Workshop, Zitao Street Night Market and so on, which shows that Jianshui is advancing with the times.

We always keep pace with the times.

especially those ancient towns, if you want, you can almost always develop new attractions-isn't it just mountains and rivers+stories? Easy.

When it comes to Jianshui cuisine, Jianshui tofu is naturally the first choice. Besides, there are steamed chicken, rice noodles with grass buds and various barbecues.

Some people say that Jianshui cuisine is NO1 in Yunnan, and the night market in Zitao Street can be tested.

Jianshui is the birthplace of steamed chicken, because the material of the steamer is purple pottery, which is the specialty of Jianshui. Steamed chicken is steamed with steam, not stewed or fried, but steamed-all that matters is "time"!

In my opinion, Jianshui's slow life is reflected in the production of these delicious foods, whether baked tofu or steamed chicken.

Of course, there are bird walks in Chaoyang Building in the morning, and card and chess games in the afternoon. Look, it's very old Beijing.

normal, too. They are all old cities, and they are all old cities with profound humanistic life.

The steamed chicken with Jianshui is really tender and delicious, which is better than other methods. This reminds me of an old saying: you can't eat hot tofu if you are impatient.

yes, if you can't eat real food, you have to eat those "fake foods" that are quickly blended.

in this sense, to build water is to cure this "acute disease" of modern people.

In Jianshui, except some roadside stalls, barbecue stalls and small shops, such as Zixing Roast Duck Restaurant, Lin 'an Hotel, Baoxing Building and Fuji Restaurant, you can try it, and you won't be disappointed.

In addition, there are some "fly restaurants" frequented by local people. As long as you are interested and have time to find and ask, I believe there will be surprises.

I once read a sentence: When you go to Yunnan, you will find that some trips are called tourism, while others are called "going to another life"-Yunnan is another desirable life.

well said. I want to add: In the past, Dali was the representative of this kind of life. Now, I prefer to say that it is Jianshui.

when I was in Dali, I first heard the word "fortunately".

Today's Kunming is already "difficult". Today's Dali is also slowly "difficult"-when will the "good" Jianshui become "difficult"?

Let's pray that that day will come later, later, later ...

The poet Yu Jian once quoted a poem about building water written by Ming Yang Shen, lamenting that the water city built by Yang Caizi hundreds of years ago has not passed away, but generally still exists: the city, buildings, carved beams and painted buildings, Zhumen alley, wells and memorial archways.

this is a miracle-the poet exclaimed. During hundreds of years of changes, Jianshui is still the hometown of the aborigines, and it still leads a similar life as when Yang Shen visited: making tofu, pumping well water, making bean jelly, making rice noodles, and washing clothes by the well ... < P > At the same time, the poet is inevitably worried: Jianshui has been besieged by homogeneous new cities ... I have witnessed its friends' hesitation, change and perseverance.

Can Jianshui really escape the invasion, manipulation and distortion of modernization and commercialization?

As the title shows, my original intention of this Jianshui trip is to "visit the old". Since it is the "old place", there will always be some people, things and things, and there will always be some places that are particularly worrying and make people want to revisit and reunite.

yes.

when I got off at the bus station outside the ancient city, I chose to walk into the city and go along Yinghui Road.

Compared with four years ago, Yinghui Road has become more beautiful. The green belt in the center of the road is full of flowers and colorful flags, which is more like a "welcome road".

A new Wal-Mart has opened near the literature famous Bangfang, which is a small surprise.

after passing through the famous literature workshop, it seems that I suddenly crossed into another time and space, and there was a moment of trance. The ordinary archway door seems to be a secret tunnel organ. As soon as it entered, it immediately opened the Ming and Qing modes.

There are almost all old buildings on both sides of the road, which are genuine, not modern imitations. The road surface and the facade of the building should have been trimmed, but it is somewhat old-fashioned, and it doesn't seem to be against it.

I walked on the elevated pedestrian lane in the middle of Yinghui Road, crossed the pavilions built on it, and reached Yinghui Gate all the way. This is the east gate of the ancient city, and on it is the famous Chaoyang Building, which the locals call Little Tiananmen Square.

through the Yinghui Gate, you will find Jianshui Ancient City.

has the ancient city changed after four years? It must have changed.

It seems that the road surface has also been trimmed. Looking at it, the whole Lin 'an Road has become more beautiful and photogenic. However, it's not scary. It's basically the same as it was four years ago. Moreover, the small shops frequented four years ago are still there: the old spoon powder shop, the old papaya shop and the street stalls selling Jianshui chicken feet. When I asked, it was still the price four years ago (very touched, is there any wood? ）。

I turned to a nearby alley to see the ancient well. The well is still in use. The people in the alley, the people coming and going, the busy business in their hands, and the carefree expression on people's faces and the unhurried behavior-all are still there.

a truly living ancient city-I thought to myself.

under the blue sky, white clouds and sunny sun, the slow life that has been self-sufficient for thousands of years, calm and simple, is always going on slowly, and the charm that has been cultivated for thousands of years is flowing warmly and endlessly in the street life of drinking and eating, and in the lights of thousands of families.

that's great.

don't destroy it, just let it go on like this-ten years, a hundred years, forever.

I prayed silently for it. Although I know, this possibility is slim. Because, the change is always in progress.

it's only a matter of time.

As usual, there are people selling all kinds of fresh fruits and snacks under the archway at the corner of Hanlin Street, and the prices don't seem expensive. Here, like Kunming, the price is also quoted in kilograms.

A group of tourists gathered in front of the political examination shed, naturally taking various photos. When I looked intently, I saw that some sculptures had been added in front of the barbecue shed. This was really a bit of a distraction and grandstanding. Originally, there was a group of sculptures in front of the test shed, and there was a group of sculptures in the courtyard. I think it's just right. It's harmonious.

There is an interesting little story about these two groups of sculptures. When I first saw the group of carvings in front of the door, I always thought it was