Xijiang, Qianhu Miao Village meets the most beautiful sea of ??stars

I have never seen that starry sky again!

So close, so close, as if within reach, the scene is in front of you, you seem to be in front of me.

Looking down at the starry sky, I seem to be sitting on the clouds, without any dust.

1.

The Spring Festival is in full swing. I entered southeastern Guizhou from Guizhou, said goodbye to Zhenyuan and came to Xijiang. Entering the "Thousand Households of Miao Village", known as the best village in the world, as soon as I arrived at Xijiang Menmei, I saw a very domineering slogan: "If you don't come to Xijiang, you will be in Guizhou in vain."

Guizhou is rich in flavor. Heavy, when mentioning Guizhou, I think of Miao territory, a nation that cultivates its own food, weaves and clothes itself, and has a rich and splendid material culture.

I rarely go deep into the mountains in the hinterland. The unknown brings fear and awe, purity and simplicity. This mysterious color has a long history.

Regarding exploration, I definitely don’t have the tenacity and perseverance of an explorer. I am both timid and curious. I can't explore dangerous jungles or explore in the Sahara Desert like San Mao.

A strange woman like Sanmao, as long as she wants to go somewhere, no matter whether it is surrounded by dangers or thorns, she will still go to the tiger mountain even though she knows that there are tigers in the mountain. He will always try his best to achieve his goal before giving up. Nothing and no one can stop him.

Guizhou is the representative of mystery, evil, barbarism, and voodoo arts. However, these magical ghost arts are both loved and hated. Love its magic and weirdness, hate its viciousness and insidiousness.

According to legend, cultivating voodoos is popular in Miao territory, and they are good at cultivating voodoo mothers. However, anyone who is poisoned by voodoo poisons can only find a way to cure the poison by finding the voodoo poisoning or its branch, otherwise they will die. These are all rumors, but there are many magical and unsolvable things in this world itself.

Finally arrived, this magnificent gate stands majestically on the top of the mountain. Looking up at you now, everything has overcome the dust and anxiety on the road.

Even if we set out in the cold wind in the early morning and drive on the winding mountains, there are dense tunnels one after another. Although it is a high speed, the speed is not high speed.

2.

Qianhu Miao Village’s reputation as “the best Miao village in the world” comes from the high purity and high density of its original residents.

The three of us carried our luggage through the gatehouse of the Miao Village and crossed the street. The aroma of food fills the air, and various snacks are served on the street or in the hall. The most impressive thing is "bacon". You can see long and wide pieces piled up in a pile or hung all over the wall almost everywhere. The black and red shiny meat makes people want to buy it.

There is an endless stream of tourists here, just the opposite of Zhenyuan. One is a lady who lives in seclusion, and the other is an oiran who is looked up to by thousands of people.

At the end of the street is the ticket gate for entering the village. There are sightseeing buses available, but there is a long queue waiting. It will be uncomfortable if you continue to queue. In the end, we chartered another car and chose a privately operated vehicle in the village. Enter.

It is a winding downhill road, from the top of the mountain to the bottom of the valley. There is an abyss on the left and a mountain on the right. When you reach the center of the village, it is very convenient to check into the "Huayu" Inn that you have booked in advance.

Go out and meet good people, and once again meet a warm and thoughtful boss. When the private car driver dropped us off near the inn, the local driver didn't know the specific location of the inn.

When I called my boss again: "Boss, we haven't seen your inn for a long time, and we don't know how to get there?"

"You guys stand where you are, and I will I'll be there soon." A reassuring message to appease Feng Chen.

After a while, the boss emerged from the path. After an introduction, he took the heaviest suitcase from our hands and guided us.

Looking at the alleys under the eaves, the vegetable fields on the ridges, and the drizzle falling from the sky, I was not only shocked but also a little panicked. Where's the inn you promised? How like leaving a farmhouse!

Fortunately, we arrived not far away. After checking in, we went straight to the guest room on the third floor. Chic and neat, the entire room is made of pure wood in original colors, it is indeed a mountain city.

Opening the curtains, the entire wall was covered with floor-to-ceiling windows, and I stared blankly at the surrounding scenery. This world is like a paradise.

A whole stretch of stilted buildings at the bottom of the valley is the heart of the Miao village. It seems that a Miao village is clearly a small town. It turns out that I live halfway up the mountain, right across from the scroll opposite.

If the "Riverside Scene during the Qingming Festival" we see can only be a picture scroll, but now I see a living "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" in front of me. What's different is that this is a Miao cultural scroll.

From a distance, the stilted buildings look like they were built against the mountains over time. Some of them are newly built, but they are still made of pure wood. The only old-style building in front of me has bricks and yellow walls. The yellow is a light old yellow, like a yellow leaf in autumn.

The small foreign-style building has become a unique existence. The entire outer wall unfolds in a semi-arc fan shape, the tile roof is in a trapezoidal pattern, and the beams and ridges are carved but cannot be seen clearly. There are five small buildings in a row, two with two floors and three floors from the left, and two buildings with two floors and three floors from the right with five floors in the middle. The auxiliary buildings on both sides support the main building. The window lattice of the main building is made of white prismatic flowers, like a white knitted prismatic flower tablecloth. There are one to five on each floor, which makes it even more unique.

3.

When I think of my empty stomach, I rush to find food to fill my stomach. I think that sitting quietly and drinking tea when I come back is the most luxurious enjoyment.

With the endless flow of people and the dazzling array of food, you don’t want to be attracted by the parade after having a casual meal.

As the crowd looked closer, it turned out to be a performance of a wedding ceremony. Suddenly I heard the sound of a suona, a reed instrument, and a flute. I looked towards the source of the music and saw a group of men and women dressed in rich costumes, ceremoniously appearing in my sight.

The team is coming towards me. At the front of the team is the ritual music. While playing Miao music unique to the Miao people, they walked in an orderly manner at the front of the team, followed by men and women, mostly middle-aged women, who carried gift burdens.

Miao women love flowers, colors, and silver jewelry. They decorate their high hair with pink, red, and purple flowers in full bloom, and dress up beautifully and enthusiastically.

The costumes of the Miao people are both totems and stories. In addition to their gorgeous clothes, they also wear dozens of kilograms of silver jewelry. Every step they take makes a beautiful sound of music. This is probably the wedding dress that parents have built for themselves since birth, and the dowry they have accumulated.

A set of silver jewelry weighs at least twenty or thirty kilograms. Just like an old saying of the Miao people: "Without silver and flowers, she is not a girl; with clothes but without silver, she is not dressed up." It is simply that bigness is beauty. , a nation that values ??wealth as its source of wealth.

People cannot live alone, and their works are their souls.

The wedding procession arrived at a circular stage. I watched the procession forming a circle from the side. Slowly, many tourists joined in, and the circle formed a circle. Get up and dance.

I simply went to the countryside to learn about the customs and participate in it, feeling the lively atmosphere, like trying to open up a shackles on myself.

The event has come to an end and tourists are evacuated. I walked alone through the crowded streets with the crowds of people, and the shops filled with all kinds of tourists. I walked aimlessly and boredly.

After entering the museum, every area was crowded with people. Passing through the banquet culture area, belief culture area, medical culture area, silver jewelry culture area, embroidery culture area, carpentry culture area... these are the traditional crafts and rituals of Miao culture.

The long table banquet is the highest standard of etiquette for the Miao people to receive guests. Silversmiths and carpenters are one of the most soulful craftsmen of the Miao people.

They have one workshop at a time, using hammers as pens and silver as paper. They transformed the beautiful birds and animals into religious totem elements and recorded them in clothing, jewelry, and utensils, recording the historical evolution and displaying the Miao culture.

For example, the most representative "Silversmith of Long Taiyang" is not only an inheritor of "intangible cultural heritage", but better than "intangible cultural heritage". Each of Teacher Long's works is a story. Every work seems to be "alive" and can be spoken to.

But for Teacher Long, Teacher Long dislikes the title of "intangible cultural heritage" and even feels hatred for it. Teacher Long said: "Many people have false reputations and do not really focus on passing on the inheritance. Apart from fame and fortune, they do not worry about the loss of skills and the loss of culture!"

Everyone who knows Teacher Long knows Teacher Long. He is a traditional craftsman who sticks to the bottom line. Because he adheres to tradition, his hand drawing has become a unique skill. The silver strands were stretched from beginning to end to look like hair, and there was an endless stream of students who came here to experience and learn.

In addition to being silversmiths, Miao men are also great craftsmen. Each house is built entirely by hand. The entire frame of the house does not use a single iron nail, but is all connected with mortise and tenon joints.

I was surprised to see the superb craftsmanship of each carpenter and the elegance and aura of each house.

After walking out of the exhibition hall, the streets were full of people. It was four o'clock in the afternoon. The early spring evening was even colder because of the mountains.

I gathered my down jacket and walked casually along the long street, from the north gate to the west gate. I wandered alone for more than an hour. I was a little tired and had no intention of doing these handicrafts. I passed several tea shops, but I only passed by them and didn’t dare to go inside to try tea. When you are away from home, too many warnings have already entered your mind.

I bought a hand-drawn map of Qianhu Miao Village and a set of postcards on a short walk. I always like to pick one or two of these small, inexpensive and meaningful things to make. Commemoration can be used as memory.

While walking, I took a wrong turn and stumbled into that pavilion. It was less lively and less crowded with people; it was more quiet and more elegant. Most importantly, the fragrance of tea lingered. .

4.

The pavilion-style single-seat tea seat looks like it charges tea fees based on brewing, which I think is within my acceptable range.

"Hello, can I try your tea? I'll buy it after you drink it and like it, okay?"

"Sure." Just listen to the soft and thin voice. Then, a woman wearing a smoky blue cotton and linen robe walked over.

With such a simple opening statement, I never thought that I would meet a close friend in this industry. In the end, I drank a lot of good tea for free, and I still received tea made by her herself when I came back.

She is called "Jimei" to inherit the traditional "ji", the beautiful "mei."

Jimei, a woman from the Miao family, a girl with this mountain, this water, this aura, It has the aroma of books, tea, craftsmanship and aura. All the classical beauty stayed in her courtyard, with nowhere to hide.

I stumbled into a quiet corner in the bustling scenic spot. I never expected to encounter such a quiet and beautiful scenery.

Just like a certain passage: "Between people, if the soul cannot vibrate, if the frequency is not in sync, and they only meet superficially, they will eventually become strangers and forget each other. The rivers and lakes are far away from each other. And those people with the same breath and similar souls will meet one day under the same sky, even if they are thousands of miles apart."

In the open-air courtyard. It was a bit cold, the mountain breeze was gentle, and the tea table was placed just under the big withered tree. Drinking tea in the knife-cutting cold wind, looking at the scattered yellow leaves left on the dead trees. The coldness of early spring is far worse than that of late winter. I wonder when spring will come in the mountain city and when I will see the fresh green scene blown by the wind.

You hold a cup of black tea and smell the sweet aroma. You made tea for me, and I looked at your method of making tea and the color of the tea without moving. One way to wake up the tea and two entrances. The tea soup in each one is extremely beautiful, and the sweet aroma is assailed. This is a unique attribute of black tea and different from other black teas.

You are very busy. Besides me, there is also a table of guests. After three courses of tea, you got up and went to make tea for the guests at the table next to you. Occasionally, I saw you making tea while talking to the guests, probably introducing your products.

This courtyard is circular in shape and is surrounded by five or six stores. The first two stores are yours. One is a tie-dye embroidered clothing store and the other is a silver shop. There are people who are similar to you next to me. I wonder if it is because of the Spring Festival that they are all closed.

When you sat down again apologetically, you poured boiling water into the teacup and said, "During the Spring Festival, all the partners and store staff went back to their hometowns for the New Year, so they were a little busy."

When you When mixing the new tea soup into the remaining tea soup from the previous one, I said: "I like to drink the tea soup one by one, and I don't like to mix them together, so that I can't taste the changes of each tea soup."

We seem to After finding the same topic, the conversation began to revolve around the types of tea. Even if I take the initiative to make tea, you will do the same. We started to test teas one after another. Jimei took out all the few remaining tea samples from last spring in the store, just because I know a little about drinking tea, but I am insignificant in front of you. I can only be lucky to get this. treatment.

"This Yinqiu tea is Weiming tea from last spring, and there are just a few brews left. The taste is still good, but it has been packaged earlier and the taste is not as fresh as when it was made last year."< /p>

“This first-class black tea is made from a tea base imported from Fujian. It has its own orchid fragrance...”

“Actually, I arranged for us to go to the training because the government had quotas. , the teacher is from Xi’an, and I also studied in Xi’an.

"

"I also went to Wuyi Mountain to study and transplanted tea seeds there and planted them on more than ten acres. ”

“I have been trapped in this for more than ten years, from when I was a student to when I was teaching students. ”

Listening to you talk about the past, brewing your tea, feeling it carefully and savoring the different fragrance of each tea.

Your detailed description During the sharing, a visitor actually sat down at my tea table. He thought I was the store owner, and I was willing to do some sales for a while, and unexpectedly successfully helped you sell a bag of green tea.

Night fell. Soon, the noise still lingered, and neon lights were lit everywhere. It was the beginning of the year, and we had a gathering at home. You were going home from abroad, so I had to say goodbye reluctantly. I knew that I would have to say goodbye tonight and see you again in the future. It's an online connection.

Fate is so magical sometimes, seemingly unrelated people can meet and drink tea together. This is the magnetic field where like attracts each other.

Despite the hardships on the road ahead, I hope you can make a cup of tea that doesn’t recognize fireworks in a world of fireworks. Make a pot of tea in a remote place and look at the sea of ??clouds, and watch the peaches and plums you planted bloom everywhere. I hope you can The fragrance of peaches and plums blooms all over the mountain, and the beauty of a person has nothing to do with appearance or age. If you have tea, you will have the fragrance of tea, and if you have books, you will have the fragrance of books. Where, where it suddenly becomes a scenery, you are so beautiful drinking tea, and you are so beautiful in an instant.

Huang Qiao said in "The Great Craftsman": "Craftsmen are either far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, or hidden in the city! Among them, they have the steadiest hands and the most performance-oriented hearts, and they only focus on doing one thing in their lives. What they inherit is not only craftsmanship, but also a craftsman spirit and a way of life. ”

5.

The night quickly opened with a dark curtain, and all the neon signs around me lit up at some point, making it a grand and prosperous night.< /p>

The cold wind of the night blew on my face, lingering on the dimly lit place. The simple and elegant Fengyu Bridge has stood still for thousands of years, and the pillars are carved with the traces of thousands of people touching them. The smooth texture is formed one by one, a kind of texture that can only appear after years of baptism

I hurried back to the inn, my brother was playing with his mobile phone on the bed, and my sister was sitting in front of the floor-to-ceiling window. I looked along her line of sight, and I was stunned by the sight in front of me.

The bright starry sky, a sea of ??stars that seemed to be within reach of my hand, was so beautiful that it couldn't be more beautiful; crystal clear. It’s so crystal clear. How do they manage to blend in with nature?

My sister’s words came to me: “Many people have traveled thousands of miles to see the scene in front of me. Beautiful scene. "

Sister, with such a beautiful scenery, why not make some tea for wine!

"Of course! ”

The room is equipped with a small long table and two small benches. The store owner carefully planned the scene for each guest. The wine table and tea table are all just right. I took out the ones I brought with me Simple tea set, the water from the faucet is also mountain spring water, which is simple yet elegant.

As the boiling water is poured into the bowl, the aroma of tea fills you up. , who said that tea is not as good as wine, it just lacks the scene suitable for getting drunk. The tea at this moment makes me drunk!

Just like the beautiful scenery in front of me, you also seem to be in front of me, I can't just look at it from a distance! I can touch you without standing on tiptoes.

You are the ancient overlord, you are the ancestor of Jiuli, and the Miao people are your descendants... Do you know that the "Zhuolu" event? After you fell in the battle, your Jiuli people migrated southward from the Central Plains.

Now I stand on this land, seeing your last lineage, thinking about you in ancient times; my soul. Are you okay?

I smiled foolishly, and my sister laughed at me. You are really drunk when you are in front of me!

The scene is beautiful, and the surrounding night is rich. It's the perfect time to indulge my thoughts and let them bloom.

At midnight, I lay on the bed and fell asleep looking at the stars. Looking at the sea of ??stars under the duvet, I fell asleep.