Does anyone know about the snacks of the Northern Song Dynasty, the wine culture and tea culture of that era?

The wine industry of the Song Dynasty was in an improving and mature period in the history of Chinese winemaking. A large number of theoretical works on winemaking were published, and distilled liquor appeared. The wine industry inherited and developed the business ideas of the Tang Dynasty, marking the maturity and maturity of wine culture. great development.

Mr. Shi Naian used more than 600 drinking scenes (times) in "Water Margin" to describe the relevant situation of the wine industry, drinking customs at different ages, drinking etiquette, banquet fashion, drinking utensils, drinking orders, The types and brands of wine, etc., through these descriptions of the environment and background, show the characteristics of the wine culture of that era, and present to readers a rich complete volume of the wine culture of the Song Dynasty.

1. It shows the prosperous wine industry in the Song Dynasty

1. The wine industry is prosperous and hotels are everywhere. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, there were hotels everywhere from the busy city of Beijing to remote mountain villages, even in inaccessible places.

⑴. There are many large hotels where the state capital is located: the "Cuiyun Tower" in Daming Mansion has hundreds of pavilions, upstairs and downstairs." Pavilions: namely elegant rooms. A restaurant with hundreds of private rooms is now a very large hotel.

The twenty-ninth chapter, "Shi En Dominates Mengzhou Road, Wu Song Gets Drunk and Beats Chiang Menshen" writes: "This happy forest has fourteen or five miles of fields from the east gate, and it is considered to be a wine seller. There are twelve or three of them." When you go out of the city to the "marketplace" Happy Forest, you can imagine that there are so many hotels along the way.

⑵. There are hotels and restaurants of various sizes in the county: for example, in Yanggu County, there is the small hotel where Wu Dalang asked Brother Yun to go with him, the hotel on the corner of Zishi Street, and the hotel at the entrance of Uncle He Jiu's home , the Lion Tower Hotel under Lion Bridge, etc. can be seen everywhere.

⑶. There are quite a lot of hotels in villages and towns: for example, when Lu Zhishen went to a market under Mount Wutai, there were about five to seven hundred people living there, and there were many hotels. There was a hotel "less than thirty or twenty steps away" from the blacksmith's house; " After walking a few steps, there was another hotel. I got up and came out of here, and even walked to three or five hotels, but refused to sell Lu Zhishen wine. "Far away, deep in the apricot blossoms, at the end of the street, a family picked out "Come on the broom", when I walked there to look, it was a small hotel near the village.

⑷. There is a hotel in a very small residential area: "(Lin Chong) walked again and saw a group of people. When Lin Chong stopped to look, he saw a straw broom in the fence. "In the open air."

⑸. There is a hotel in the mountains: Wu Song "We couldn't walk more than a mile, and when we came to a place that was neither a village nor a country, we saw a wine flag again. Gao Tiao stood out in the woods. When he came to look among the trees, he saw a small hotel selling village mash."

"Lin Chong just walked through the snow and saw that the weather was getting colder and it was getting late. From a distance, I saw a hotel near Zhenxi Lake, covered with snow.

I saw a high mountain in front of me, which was very steep. The traveler came down from Tugangzi and walked three or five miles before he saw a hotel with a clear stream in front of the door and jagged mountains behind it."

⑹ There are also hotels in the mountains where tigers and wolves are infested. : For example, not far from Jingyanggang, "there is a hotel with a flag in front of the door, with five words written on it: 'Three bowls are not enough for the hill'."

⑺, beside the official road There is a hotel not far away: mentioned many times in the book. "After walking three to five hundred steps from the east gate of Mengzhou, I saw a wine shop next to the official road." "Within a mile or two, I saw another hotel on the road."

2. Hotels in the Song Dynasty emphasized the cultural personality of famous brands

The naming of hotels and restaurants began to flourish in the Song Dynasty. There are famous restaurants in "Water Margin": Lion House, Yuanyang House, Xunyangjiang House, Happy Forest Hotel, Pipa Pavilion, Fan House, Cuiyun House, etc. Xunyangjiang Restaurant "There is a viewing pole erected next to it, and a green cloth wine bar hangs on it, with the words 'Xunyangjiang Zhengku' written on it. On the plaque outside the carved eaves, there are three words 'Xunyang Tower' written by Su Dongpo. . ”

3. Hotels should pay attention to publicity and advertising planning:

Hotels, large and small, use different forms of publicity to attract customers.

Xunyang Tower "On the vermilion pillar beside the door, there are two white powder plates, each with five characters, which reads: 'There is no matchless wine in the world, and there are famous restaurants in the world.'" This restaurant invited famous cultural celebrities at that time Su Dongpo inscribed a plaque to improve the cultural taste of the hotel.

Happy Forest Hotel: "There is a viewing pole in front of the eaves, with a wine grape hanging on it, which says in four big characters: 'Heyang Fengyue'. When I turned around to look, I saw a green railing in front of the door. , with two gold flags on each, with five gold characters on each, which reads: 'The universe is great in the drunkenness, and the sun and the moon are long in the pot.'"

2. Describes the perfect service of wine in the Song Dynasty. Industry status

1. Provide comfortable and pleasant drinking places and facilities

⑴. In order to meet the needs of customers, there are restaurants and hotels of different grades, each with different drinking places, such as " "Ge'er" (single-room elegant seating), privacy is guaranteed for dining and banquets.

⑵. Provide customers with conditions to express their feelings

The hotel has white walls and pens and ink provided, so diners can freely write poems and inscriptions. In the Xunyangjiang Tower, Song Jiang "got up to watch and saw many ancestors writing chants on the white powder wall", "taking advantage of the wine, grinding the ink to thicken, and dipping the pen to full, he went to the white powder wall and wrote...".

⑶. There are various wines of different grades.

The general wines written in the book include: wine pulp, plain wine, meat wine, colored wine, Shejiu, Shezhen, Village wine, village mash, Maochai white wine, village mash water white wine, muddy white wine, meat-free white wine, white wine; high-end wines include: "Lanqiao Fengyue", "Yuhuchun", "Tou Pingxiang (pour outside)", Old wine, blue and white porcelain wine, fine wine and jade liquor, Huang Fengyu wine, official wine, wine, etc.

⑷. Complete drinking facilities and luxurious wine utensils

The wine utensils of wealthy aristocrats and large hotels in the Song Dynasty were luxurious. There were more gold and silver wine utensils than the previous generation, and gold and silver wine utensils were mostly used. , often calculated as "two".

The wine sets for the palace banquet were luxurious: "The banquet was opened in tortoiseshell, and the seven treasures were inlaid with gold; the furnace was lined with unicorns, and it was made of Baihe incense and borneol. There was an amber clock in the glass cup, and the agate cup was filled with coral. Inside the red Ying plate , piled high with linsu luan liver, on a purple jade plate,..."

Li Shishi, a famous prostitute in Tokyo, entertained Song Jiang and others, "it was strange to drink wine and serve delicious food, use all the ingots to persuade them to stop drinking. , ask the nurse to sift the small golden cup."

The wine contained in the book includes: wine sea, silver wine sea, wine vat, silver pot, wine gourd, etc.

Drinking utensils include: gold flower clock inlaid with treasures, glass cup, amber bell, agate cup, coral, gold cup, table cup, cup, purple cloud cup, gold cup, wine cup, persuasion cup, appreciation bell , coconut scoop, etc. "Quanbei" refers to a cup used for toasting, which is larger than ordinary drinking glasses; "Qinpan" refers to a plate used for toasting and persuading people to drink; "Zhongzhong" means "the prefect was overjoyed and called for wine, and rewarded ten big ones in a row" "Appreciate the bell."

Warm wine has: "rotating ladle", "turning ladle", "zhuzi", etc.

2. Provide customers with convenient and thoughtful services

⑴. Service staff are enthusiastic and considerate. "The bartender responded. He went down to get a bowl and put it in front of Li Kui. While he was sifting the wine, he was laying out the dishes... The bartender poured the wine and sifted it five or seven times."

⑵ Customers can bring their own For food, just buy wine and eat. Li Kui bought a pack of jujube cakes in the market. Tang Long "followed Li Kui until he came to see Gongsun Sheng in the hotel...Li Kui took out the date cake and asked the salesman to sort it out. The three of them drank a few glasses of wine together, ate the date cake, and paid back the wine money."

⑶. Customers can bring their own raw materials and the hotel will make them for them; or the hotel also sells wine, meat, grain and rice, and guests can make their own. For example, Yang Xiong, Shi Xiu, and Shi Qian went to Liangshan Road and stayed in an inn at night. The waiter asked if he wanted to eat, and Shi Qian said, "We'll take care of ourselves." Then he cooked the food himself.

The owner of the shop said: "The blue and white porcelain wine and chicken came from Erlang's family. He only lent me the place to sit in the shop and eat wine."

Song Jiang, Zhang Shun and others were at Pipa Pavilion. Tavern. Zhang Shun took the fresh fish, "Instruct the bartender to make spicy soup for one fish, steam one fish with wine, and ask the bartender to cut the fish."

⑷. The customer drinks the remaining wine, and the hotel pays for it custody. For example, if you sit down and eat wine, you can store your food and wine in the hotel and take it as you go. Wu Song killed Zhang Doujian and others in Mengzhou and rushed to Qingzhou. On the way under a high mountain, he came across a hotel with "a clear stream in front of the door and rocky mountains behind". Kong Ming and Kong Liang deposited "blue and white porcelain wine" "And chicken, ask the store to cook it well, and then come and eat it.

3. Improve hotel functions and service content

⑴, singing and dancing to add to the fun

Song Jiang, Chai Jin and others "were passing by Fan Lou, and they heard people upstairs The music was playing, the drums were blaring, the lights were shining, and tourists were like ants. Song Jiang and Chai Jin also went to Fanlou to sit down in the pavilion, get some food and drinks, and enjoy the lanterns and drink upstairs. ”

There are those who "go to the restaurant" or "rush to sit down" and go to restaurants to sell and sing in order to obtain rewards from customers.

⑵. Drinking with singing girls

Song Jiang, Chai Jin and Li Shishi were sitting and drinking: "But when Li Shishi said some handsome words in the street, Chai Jin answered them, and Yan Qing stood by the side. Mr. Li sang Su Dongpo's poem "Da Jiangdong Goes to the East" in a low voice..." Mr. Li asked Yan Qing to play the flute, and waited on the saint to drink. After a while, he called Yan Qing again. Sing a song."

"The ceremony has been completed, please enter the back hall, where a grand banquet will be held. The officials will be drinking wine, the generals will be passing cups, the feast will be full of singing and dancing, the beards will be heard, and the Yan concubines will be singing. The beauties all played military music, played drums, played drums, and danced with Hu Xuanman."

3. Describes the role of wine in festival folk customs

The festival customs of the Chinese nation in the Qin and Han Dynasties. Basically, people gather and have feasts on New Year's Day (Spring Festival), Lantern Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, Double Ninth Festival and other major festivals. The etiquette of drinking, the types of wine, the location, content and form of the banquet, etc. They are all different and have become a stereotype.

1. A New Year’s Day public feast that pays attention to form and etiquette. Such as the New Year's Day in Song Jiang's military camp in the fifth year of Xuanhe and the New Year's Day banquet held when Song Jiang led the army to annihilate Wang Qing and returned to Beijing.

2. The Lantern Festival, which focuses on entertainment, is usually a family banquet. For example, Song Jiang celebrated the folk Lantern Festival in Huarong Village and described the Lantern Festival in the capital, which makes people feel like they are there.

3. Gather to celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival. They wrote about the Dragon Boat Festival family banquet of wealthy nobles like Liang Zhongshu and the Dragon Boat Festival in the Songjiang military camp.

4. Mid-Autumn Festival is a time for enjoying the moon and feasting. Such as the folk Mid-Autumn Festival in Shijin Manor and the Mid-Autumn Festival in the official residence of Zhang Dujian.

5. The Double Ninth Festival with traditional characteristics of the year. Detailed description of the Double Ninth Festival in Liangshan Village.

4. Detailed description of traditional drinking etiquette and customs

1. Arrange banquet seats according to etiquette, with clear seating arrangements. The banquet seating arrangements between superiors and subordinates, guests and hosts, friends, family members, and monarchs and ministers are described accurately and thoroughly.

2. The description of Chinese customs and etiquette is very detailed. Such as making alliances, paying homage, greeting each other, seeing off, and even the custom of having a bowl of long break meal and farewell wine before the prisoner is executed.

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1. The depth of tea science

Compared with the tea science of the Tang Dynasty, the tea science of the Song Dynasty made many achievements in depth. Due to the southward shift of the tea industry, Jian'an Beiyuan is the most popular tea tribute tea. Therefore, many tea researchers also tend to focus on Jian'an tea. In particular, the research on Beiyuan tribute tea is both in-depth and sophisticated. Academic topics have a strong contemporary and regional flavor. After these studies were handed down in the form of books, they provided detailed information for the current study of tea history and tea culture in the Song Dynasty.

Among the tea writings of the Song Dynasty, the more famous ones include Ye Qingchen's "Short Notes on Cooking Tea", Cai Xiang's "Tea Records", Song Zian's "Dongxi Tea Test Records", Shen Kuo's "This Dynasty" "Tea Method", Zhao Ji's "Daguan Tea Theory", etc.

Among the tea scholars in the Song Dynasty, there are Zhao Ji, Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty, who was the leader of the country, Ding Wei and Cai Xiang, the court ministers and writers, the famous natural scientist Shen Kuo, as well as rural Confucians, Jinshi, and even The hermit "Old Shen'an" whose real name is still unknown. Judging from the identities of these authors, tea studies in the Song Dynasty were rich in talents and research levels. The research content includes the comparison of tea origins, tea cooking techniques, tea leaf type, the relationship between raw materials and finished tea, tea drinking utensils, tea fighting process and appreciation, tea quality evaluation, the name and reality of Beiyuan tribute tea, etc.

Because tea science in the Song Dynasty focused more on building tea, it had new developments in depth and system compared with the Tang Dynasty.

2. The vigorous advocacy of the palace and royal family

The development of tea culture in the Song Dynasty was largely influenced by the palace and royal family. Regardless of its cultural characteristics or cultural forms, it is more or less aristocratic. At the same time, tea culture has developed more fully in the elegant category. The strong advocacy of the royal family is mainly reflected in the following aspects: First, the feudal etiquette system strives for excellence in tribute tea, which in turn leads to various ways of drinking and using tea. The Song Dynasty tribute tea has been further developed in form and quality since Cai Xiang was appointed as the transshipment envoy to Fujian. Ouyang Xiu said that this kind of tea "is worth two taels of gold, but gold can be obtained, but tea cannot be obtained." Song Renzong recommended this kind of Xiaolongtuan the most, cherished it, and even the ministers close to the prime minister did not give it away casually. They only gave it away every year. When the southern suburbs offer sacrifices to heaven and earth, four ministers from each of the Central Privy Council are lucky enough to be assigned to the same group. However, these ministers are often reluctant to drink the drink themselves, and use it specifically to honor their parents or give it to friends. Before giving this kind of tea to ministers, the palace maids cut it out of gold foil into patterns of dragons, phoenixes, flowers and plants and pasted them on it, which is called "embroidered tea".

3. The prosperity of various tea drinking activities

The Song Dynasty was the most active era of tea drinking activities in history. Along the way, "embroidery tea" and "fighting tea" were derived from tribute tea; "fencha" was used for literati's self-entertainment; as a folk tea house and restaurant, the ways of drinking tea are even more colorful.

The most typical example of folk tea drinking in the Song Dynasty was Lin'an (now Hangzhou) during the Southern Song Dynasty. When Lin'an was established as the capital in the Southern Song Dynasty, the teahouse culture centered on it emerged due to the exchange and integration of tea-drinking cultures between the north and the south. The current teahouse was called a tea house in the Southern Song Dynasty. According to Wu Zimu's "Mengliang Lu" Volume 16, the tea shop in Lin'an (today's Hangzhou) imitated the tea wine shop layout in Bianjing City in style. The tea shop was decorated with paintings and calligraphy by famous people, flower stands, and flowers from all seasons. "Exotic teas and soups are sold all year round, and Qibao Leicha, steamed buns, green onion tea... are sold in the winter months." At night, a mobile shop is also launched to meet tourists' tea needs. In Lin'an City at that time, tea was sold day and night. Even if it snowed heavily in the middle of winter, there would still be people selling bottles of tea after the third watch.

Hangcheng tea shops are divided into many levels to adapt to different consumers. Teahouses and tea shops are generally used as places for drinking tea. Among the customers, "many are children of wealthy families, and people such as Zhu Xiazhi and others gather together to practice Learn musical instruments, teach music and earn money, etc." It was called "hangpaoer" at that time. Some tea shops "are not originally engaged in tea snacks and tea soups, but they use this as an excuse to look for tea golden fungus." At that time, it was called "renqing teahouse". Some of them were "exclusively a gathering place for the five good people, and there were also people from various trades and trade associations who gathered for old age." At that time, they were called "Shimai". There are also some teahouses, which are specially used as meeting places for scholar-bureaucrats to meet their friends. Famous ones include "Cuqiu Tea House" and "Chiang Kai-shek Tea House". There is also a type of teahouse called "Flower Teahouse", where prostitutes are placed upstairs to lure customers. These teahouses are called teahouses, but they are actually pornographic places.

The art of "embroidering tea" was a secret in the palace. According to records in "Qian Chun Feng Shi Ji" written by Zhou Mi of the Southern Song Dynasty, in early February of each year, the first tea tribute from Beiyuan was listed in the palace. This tea was exquisitely packaged and praised by hundreds of people. It is made from tongue water buds. It is said that one can brew several cups. Probably because it is too precious, people are generally reluctant to drink it, so an art of playing with tea that is only for viewing was born. This method of embroidering tea, according to careful records, is: "In the Daqing Festival during the ban, large gilts were used, and dragons and phoenixes were clustered with five-color rhyme fruits. It was called embroidered tea, but it was just pleasing to the eye. There are also people who specialize in this craft, which is rare for outsiders."

Another tea-playing art called "Liaoyingchun" is to watch first and then taste. The gameplay of "Leu Ying Chun" probably appeared in the Five Dynasties or the late Tang Dynasty. By the Song Dynasty, it had become a relatively fashionable way of drinking tea. This practice was recorded in detail in Tao Gu's "Qing Yi Lu" of the Song Dynasty: "The spring method of leaking shadows is to stick the cup with carved paper, make the tea and remove the paper, pretending to be a flower body. Don't use lychee meat as leaves, pine "Really, treasures such as duck feet are used as stamens. Stir them when the soup is boiling." "Xiu Cha" and "Liao Ying Chun" are plastic arts based on dry tea. In contrast, "Dou Cha" and "Fen Cha" are tea brewing arts.

"Tea fighting" is a method of comparing tea quality with each other, which is highly utilitarian. It was first used in the selection of tribute tea and the competition of market price and grade.

The word "fight" has summarized the intensity of this activity, so "tea fight" is also called "tea battle".

If "fighting tea" has a strong utilitarian flavor, then "fencha" has an elegant literati flavor. "Fen Cha" is also called "tea show" and "soup show". People who are good at dividing tea can use the water veins in the tea bowl to create many calligraphy and paintings that are good at changing. From these bowl patterns, viewers and creators can get a lot of beautiful enjoyment.