Historical development knowledge of Han Fu

Historical development knowledge of Han Fu

Hanfu, also known as Huafu, Huafu, Huafu and Huafu, is a traditional national costume of the Han nationality. So, among them, what are the cultures of Hanfu? Come and have a look with me!

Hanfu cultural knowledge

The cross collar in Hanfu not only represents the round earth, but also is full of human feelings and square; Sleeves are actually round, not only representing the round place is the sky. So the collar is a cross collar (evolved from the original square rectangular collar). Sleeves are round, and they all embody culture like totems.

Kong Zhengyi, the most typical deep garment in Hanfu, said: "Therefore, those who call it a deep garment are not connected with the top and bottom of the garment, but are connected with the garment, so it is called a deep garment." Deep clothing is the clothing that can best reflect the cultural spirit of China. Deep clothes symbolize the virtues of oriental harmony with nature, magnanimity, fairness and integrity, and inclusiveness. Cuff width

Thick clothes

Big, symbolizing the harmony of heaven; The neckline intersects at right angles, symbolizing authentic founder; A straight seam runs through the back, symbolizing humanity and integrity; The big belt around the waist symbolizes balance; Divided into upper and lower parts, symbolizing two musical instruments; The coat is made of four pieces of cloth, symbolizing all seasons; 12 piece of cloth is used for clothing, symbolizing1February of a year. Wearing deep clothes can naturally reflect the harmony of heaven, embrace the founder of the tunnel, conform to the right path of the world, weigh the rules when advancing and retreating, and conform to the order of the four seasons.

The word "Hanfu" first appeared in Hanshu: "In a few days, I will congratulate you and enjoy the Hanfu system". The "Han" here mainly refers to the Han Dynasty, which refers to the dress etiquette system of the Han Dynasty. The formation of the so-called "Han" name is directly related to the Han Dynasty. Just as the traditional dress of the Hu people is called "Hu Fu", the traditional dress of the Han people is called "Hanfu". Therefore, the basic connotation of the word "Hanfu" was later fixed, which is the traditional clothing of the Han nationality. In the long history, "Hanfu" has gradually become a cultural symbol of Han people's self-identity. In the Tang Dynasty, Fan Chuo clearly called the costumes of the Tang Dynasty "Hanfu". During the Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, some foreign rulers also explicitly used "Hanfu" to refer to the costumes of the Han people. For example, "After Emperor Taizong of Liao entered Jin, both the emperor and the Nanban Han officials used Hanfu; The empress dowager and the northern Khitan courtiers all wore national clothes, and their Hanfu was a legacy of the Five Dynasties and the Jin Dynasty. When the Yuan Dynasty revised the Liao history, it even opened up a "Hanfu" for Hanfu.

Clothing characteristics of Hanfu

The costumes of the Han nationality are extensive and profound. "From Yan to Song and Ming Dynasties, based on the costumes worn by the Han people (the Chinese nation in the pre-Qin period), it evolved into a series of costumes with obvious unique styles." Hanfu is a traditional costume of the Han nationality. This definition is mainly based on three considerations:

First: the nationality of Hanfu, that is, Hanfu is the costume of the Han nationality. Moreover, the clothes worn by China ancient conference semifinals can't be called Hanfu. Nation is a whole concept, so the clothes of the Hu people worn by a Han nationality cannot be called the traditional clothes of the Han nationality.

Second, the tradition of the development of Hanfu, which must be divided into two aspects, namely inheritance and unity. The inheritance of Hanfu lies in the following aspects: the origin of Hanfu can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor in ancient China, and it has maintained the style inheritance and continued to develop. The unity of Hanfu lies in the fact that from the Yellow Emperor period to the Song and Ming Dynasties, all the mainstream Han costumes have the same characteristics in the vast land of China, in the time span of nearly 5,000 years and in the spatial breadth of several million square kilometers. That is, right-handed, big sleeves and deep clothes are typical representatives.

Third, the naturalness of the development of Hanfu, that is, the natural development that is usually not easy to be noticed by people without external force, which is also the law of the development of general things or culture. The naturalness of the development of Hanfu is the basis of the inheritance of a nation's traditional costumes, that is, the development and evolution direction of a certain thing or culture under its own normal development track. Its direction can be traced back to the source through general laws, and its development direction can also be predicted in reverse.

According to this definition, in ancient China, except the Qing Dynasty costumes, as long as the clothes worn by the Han people before the end of the Ming Dynasty, regardless of style, region, integration, differentiation and development, can be called Hanfu, while modern ancient costumes, except the Qing Dynasty costumes, are based on traditional styles, so strictly speaking, they cannot be called Hanfu. Hanfu, on the other hand, can be easily distinguished from the traditional costumes of other nationalities (including full-service, western-style clothes and modern clothes) with the naked eye. Nowadays, this kind of Hanfu is often called "ancient costume (except clear costume)". The costumes of the Qing dynasty, traced back to the source, originated from Manchu costumes. Looking back, it is not the tradition of Hanfu. Therefore, although it is worn by Han people, it does not conform to the "traditional" elements of traditional Chinese costumes, so it cannot be classified as Hanfu; The clothing worn by the Han people mainly comes from the west, and the "Tang suit" mandarin jacket and cheongsam mainly come from the traditional clothing of Manchu, so it can't be called the "traditional clothing" of the Han people. In other words, it is necessary to distinguish between the clothes worn by a Han nationality and the traditional clothes of the whole Han nationality. Hanfu is one of the national costumes with the longest history in the world.

Hanfu is a traditional national costume inherited by the Han nationality for more than 4,000 years, which can best reflect the characteristics and beliefs of the Han nationality and is a necessary part of Chinese etiquette culture. Through the four books, five classics and twenty-four histories, it has remained unchanged for thousands of years. Every feature of Hanfu can be found in the four books and five classics, twenty-four histories and Confucian classics. Every nation has its own national costume, and Hanfu embodies the national characteristics of the Han nationality. During the 4,000 years from the Yellow Emperor to the Ming Dynasty, the Han nationality created a rich and colorful Hanfu culture with its wisdom and belief, and developed a unique clothing system of the Han nationality-Hanfu system. Hanfu consists of clothes, first clothes, hairstyles, ornaments, shoes and accessories. Hanfu embodies the excellent skills and aesthetics of Chinese culture, such as textile, batik, clip-on and splendid, inherits more than 30 intangible cultural heritages in China, and embodies the reputation of splendid china as a country of dress and etiquette.

Historical development knowledge of Han Fu

According to some ancient books, the Han people (and their ancestors) have a unique clothing system. For example, according to historical records, "Hanfu was made by the Yellow Emperor" and "Before the Yellow Emperor, there was no clothing and no house. The Yellow Emperor built houses, made clothes and held funerals, so the people were spared the difficulties of survival. " Before there was no archaeological data to support it, Hanfu first appeared in the Yin and Shang Dynasties. About 5,000 years ago, during Yangshao Culture in Neolithic Age, primitive agriculture and textile industry appeared in China, and clothes were made from woven linen, and later sericulture and spinning were invented, so people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete.

After the Shang Dynasty, the system of crown service was initially established, and in the Western Zhou Dynasty, the service system was gradually formed. By the end of the Zhou Dynasty, due to the drastic changes in politics, economy, ideology and culture, especially the influence of a hundred schools of thought on the perfection of clothing, there began to be obvious differences in clothing and customs among the vassal States, resulting in deep clothing. The crown service system has been brought into the category of "rule by courtesy" and has become a manifestation of etiquette. Since then, China's clothing system has become more detailed. "The clothes in ancient times were deep clothes, and the clothes representing the characteristics of the times were also deep clothes. The depth of clothes can be the characteristic of ancient clothes. Those who are convinced by the old saying must arrive first. What is a coat? Confucius said in the Book of Rites: "Therefore, those who call it deep clothes should take the rest clothes, and the upper and lower parts are not connected. This kind of deep coat is connected with clothes, and the quilt is deep, so it is called deep coat. "In short, the system of deep clothes is the first of ancient costumes, and the collar of deep clothes has been popular for the longest time not only in its institutional form, but also at the upper and lower levels. At the same time, there are Hu clothes, which are generally composed of shorts, pants and boots. The clothes are tight and narrow, which is convenient for nomadic and hunting. In order to strengthen his army, King Wuling of Zhao adopted Khufu as a military uniform for the first time in the Central Plains. As a result, wearing Hu clothes became a common practice for a time.

After Qin unified China, various systems were established, including the system of dressing. At the beginning of the Han and Qin dynasties, the Qin system was generally followed. By the time of Emperor Han Ming in the East, referring to the clothing system of the Qin Dynasty in the Three Dynasties, the system of crown clothing in the Han Dynasty was established, with crown and hat as the main symbols to distinguish grades. The overall clothing presents a dignified and elegant style. During the Qin and Han dynasties, when men took off their coats, they mainly wore a long sleeve robe, which was divided into Qufu robe and Zhifu robe. They can be worn on other occasions besides sacrificial ceremonies and court meetings. Another feature of the Han dynasty is the implementation of preparation. Women in the Han Dynasty generally combed their hair back and tied it into a bun. There are many names of bun style, and they are invincible. In addition, aristocratic women also put steps and flowers on their heads as decorations. The maid often wraps her head with a towel. Women's clothing in the Han dynasty was deep clothes, which was different from that in the Warring States period. There are also people who wear skirts and trousers. There were also strict grading regulations for shoes in Han Dynasty.

Clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties was influenced by social politics, economy and ideology, and developed from the old system of Wei, Jin, Qin and Han Dynasties to the mutual influence, mutual absorption and gradual integration of all ethnic groups in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Clothing in this period is mainly characterized by natural and free-spirited, exquisite and ethereal. Covering one's head with towels and silk was the main first dress in this period. What is more popular is a "cage crown" with a cage towel on the small crown. During this period, Han men's clothing was mainly shirts with wide cuffs, and there were no clothes to relieve the bondage. Korean women's hair accessories are also quite distinctive, mainly the popularity of fake bun. The dress of Han women was inherited from the old system in Qin and Han dynasties, and then changed. Most of the clothes are double-breasted, long skirts and a silk belt around the waist.

In the Tang Dynasty, the formal dress was a connecting link between the preceding and the following, and the vestments and uniforms went hand in hand. French dress is a kind of traditional dress, including crown, crown, dress and so on. Official clothes, also known as official clothes, are dresses worn in general formal occasions, including round neck robes, hoes, belts, boots and so on. Colored clothes have formed a system in the Tang Dynasty. Civilians wear white clothes. The style of women's bun in Tang Dynasty is complicated. Others put golden hairpin and rhinoceros comb on their hair, and aristocratic women make up their faces into goose yellow, flower buds, makeup rollers and so on. Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty mainly includes skirts, tops and wallets.

Clothing in Song Dynasty generally followed the old system of Sui and Tang Dynasties. However, due to years of internal troubles and foreign invasion in the Song Dynasty, and the influence of Zhu Cheng's Neo-Confucianism, the costumes of this period advocated simplicity, preciseness and subtlety. At this time, the soft-footed steamed bread in the Tang Dynasty has evolved into a steamed bread hat lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquer yarn. Emperors and dignitaries wear exhibition feet, tolerances, servants, etc. Confucian scholars wear headscarves. In the Song Dynasty, men's clothing was still dominated by circles, and officials wore robes except for sacrificial ceremonies, and different colors were used to distinguish grades. In the Song Dynasty, the high bun popular in the late Tang Dynasty was the most expensive hairstyle for women, and flower arrangement was also a common practice. The skirts in Song Dynasty are narrower than those in Tang Dynasty, with fine pleats. Shirts are mostly double-breasted to cover skirts.

After the Qing Dynasty entered the customs, the official haircut order was issued on June 15th (1July 8th, 645) in the second year of Shunzhi. The official haircut order means that the mask that is not forced to shave is torn off and the haircut order is strictly enforced. At this point, people in Jiangyin and other places began the struggle against shaving. The death toll cannot be counted. The Qing dynasty brought about great changes in the appearance of Han costumes, and sent the crown clothes of the Han nationality, which lasted for 3 thousand years, to the grave. In the second year of Shunzhi, the Qing army captured the provinces in the south of the Yangtze River, and the Qing government ordered the implementation of the system of shaving and changing clothes throughout the country. The Qing government ordered that all men should shave their heads and change their braids within ten days from the date of official documents. If a system still exists, those who don't follow the current system will be killed. In line with this, it is necessary to forcibly change the clothing style of the Han people. At that time, countless people were killed for wearing Hanfu.

Han people strongly resisted the orders of the Qing government, and resistance activities broke out one after another. The long-term resistance made the Qing government consider making some concessions to stabilize the situation. Therefore, the so-called "ten obedience and ten disobedience" is put forward, that is, men do not obey women, life does not obey death, yang does not obey yin, officials do not obey officials, old people do not obey, Confucianism does not follow Buddhism and Taoism, and it is advocated. As well as being an official, disobedient in marriage, disobedient in country name, disobedient in tax payment and disobedient in language. This limited concession eventually retained some characteristics of Hanfu, but on the whole, Hanfu gradually died out under the bloody suppression and slaughter of the Qing rulers.

At the beginning of the 20th century, with the development of China's national strength, people began to examine the outstanding parts of their traditional culture. Some people re-publicize and restore traditional Hanfu by studying Hanfu system, popularizing Hanfu, restoring traditional festivals, restoring traditional etiquette, offering sacrifices to sages, popularizing traditional theories and promoting traditional musical instruments. And called it Hanfu Movement.

modern hanfu

Modern Hanfu refers to the traditional Han costumes restored by volunteers who are determined to revive Chinese civilization, respect the characteristics of ancient Han costumes and inherit the cultural genes of Hanfu for thousands of years. The main principles that modern Hanfu must follow are as follows: First, modern Hanfu must have distinctive Han national characteristics. Second, modern Hanfu must be the clothing gene handed down by the Chinese (Han) nation for thousands of years. Third, modern Hanfu should have a strict sense of dress code, reflecting the cultural requirements of the Han people's courtesy, righteousness and shame.

The basic orientation of modern Hanfu: Hanfu is the national costume of China.

Practical requirements of modern Hanfu: Modern Hanfu is generally suitable for sacrificial ceremonies, weddings, funerals, traditional festivals, celebrations, coronation ceremonies (adult ceremonies), traditional sports competitions, etc.

Several problems that should be paid attention to in modern hanfu;

Participants dressed in Hanfu during the spring sacrifice to Confucius at the Confucian Temple in Fu Xue, Jinan.

First, modern Hanfu should be careful not to wear all the clothes worn by ancient Han people in modern times, and don't wear modern Hanfu like the ancients. Special attention should be paid to the fashion popular in ancient Han people or the decoration of a specific era, and it should not be forcibly used in modern times. Such as Tang suit lapel beard, underwear and so on.

Secondly, the costumes of ancient Han people with feudal ranks, such as military uniforms, official uniforms and imperial uniforms, are not suitable for modern Hanfu.

Thirdly, after thousands of years, Hanfu will naturally have many dynasty characteristics in the long historical years, and modern Hanfu should not bear dynasty marks. In the course of thousands of years, Hanfu has the same elements. Advocate the use of deep coats and skirts with collars and right skirts as the inheritance style of modern Hanfu.

Fourthly, Hanfu, as the national costume of the Han people since ancient times, has its practicability, but it needs

Hanfu Sacrifice (Jiangyin Anti-Qing Festival)

Pay attention to how Hanfu is dressed on different occasions. For example, in formal activities, you should wear dark clothes, and in daily life, you should wear uniforms such as brown and skirts.

Present situation of modern Hanfu: Hanfu industry is developing rapidly, and Hanfu merchants produce Hanfu and related accessories with different styles, different quality and different prices according to different needs. In the process of the revival of Hanfu, the quality requirements and style selection of national costumes at different levels are in a perfect state.

(1) It is right for everyone to like different styles, but due to the deepening of their understanding of Hanfu and the needs of life, their understanding of Hanfu will change from "gorgeous, beautiful and eye-catching" to "adapting to daily life, environment and climate".

(3) Hanfu movement was initiated by the people spontaneously, which has its unique vitality, and the existing style of Hanfu was also chosen spontaneously as the main body of revival-ordinary robes, which also enabled them to better integrate into modern society.

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